SUNSHINE in SYDNEY!!!!!!! - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

It had been quite a few days since I had seen full-blown sunshine in Melbourne – I missed it so much! Now I find myself in this very beautiful space, still full of towering buildings and bordered by the harbor… which is busy with speed boats and ferries. Additionally, I know that there are many beaches and mountains to be seen! Sooooo, the adventure begins! (finally, after my down-time in Melbourne!)

I jumped in a shuttle bus (started to remind me of Africa, as we were starting to get packed into this particular mini-bus, and I was sitting backwards)…ended up with a bit of a full tour of the city prior to being the last one dropped off at the Pink House – the hostel where I would attempt to find a room… but here (in Sydney, that is,) the hotstel reception staff takes random 1-2 hr breaks!!!!!!!! So, I sat patiently in the courtyard and chatted with a nice guy from France and was quickly invited to join in on a game of monopoly with 3 other friends of his who were arriving – I was tempted, but the desire to go walk/bike in the sunshine overrode! I did manage to get a room, and I was off!

I ventured along side streets and random stairwells working my way along the fingers of the harbor… walked for probably about 2 hours total… and managed to see all sorts of beautiful things that fill the composition of Sydney. This included: a long wharf lined with posh lofts above trendy cafes; Pott’s Point – the ultimate view of the opera house (at sunrise, that is;) through the Royal Botanical Gardens (stopping to admire some storks and cockatoos along the way;) around-beside-next to-under the Sydney Opera House and Opera Café walk; around to the Rocks and Cottage Bay… and so forth… I found a newly opened art gallery featuring some of Nelson Mandela’s artwork reflecting on his time spent on Robben Island… ASTONISHING! HE IS SUCH A GIFT TO OUR WORLD! I think I ‘hopped’ out of the gallery with inspiration after my visit!

I felt confident that I could handle the trains in Sydney after learning the system in Melbourne, so I ventured to the platforms – it was simple, but I know I did entertain some of the locals, as I tried to find where my platforms were, and which direction the trains were actually traveling! OF COURSE I chose to start from the biggest, most complicated station of all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I returned back to my hostel (after a few accidental side streets and meeting a very nice Indian woman…) and arrived to 5 new dorm-mates from Singapore! I think it’s the first time I’ve ever had a full-out dinner party going on in my… bedroom?! Too funny!

Day 2… up early to venture to Toby’s Coffee House (found the organic brew tucked into a 5 mini-table, triangle café)…and found the locals there when I arrived… in hordes! I was lucky to score a seat! I made a decision to switch hostels (as I was ‘odd man out in my room – and it still smelled like dinner!, so I worked my way – after negotiations at a few places – down to Eva’s Backpackers… much better!!) From here I ventured onto Paddington afterwards to check out the markets and Oxford St… and the Sydney weekend scene and local neighborhoods – ALL of the above were fantastic! My wandering took me to the edge of Centennial Park which drew me in with a magnetic force and spit me out a few hours later, post bike-ride and mini-hike! I had to visit Max Brenner’s chocolate shop on the way back, as it is OVERPACKED with locals hour after hour… serving up some of the most exciting chocolate concoctions you could imagine! From fondue to drinking chocolate to shakes, coffees and cocoas – this place was unreal! You can choose if you want milk, white or dark chocolate in your drinks… enough said?! (even the ‘water pipes’ along the ceiling contain chocolate!)

I watched the tail end of sunset from the rooftop of my hostel and read a little more from my book – Down Under, by Bill Bryson – he cracks me up! His humor & writing style are fantabulous! …and my timing on this book couldn’t be better!

Missing Venice Beach and my yoga scene there, I found my calling for this evening at Govinda Yoga and participated in some Kirtan with a very sweet & fun guy from India who led it! Afterwards our entire group traveled upstairs to their restaurant’s back room for some yummy vegetarian food and conversation that kept us there well past closing! I was stoked to know that a few of the new friends I met were going to be headed to Lake Shrine in Pacific Palisades, along with their SRF (Self Realization Fellowship) group – it’s almost like we’re trading places! It was certainly a treat to have a ‘taste’ of home (and actually feel ‘in place’ in my beloved yoga clothes) with random strangers… who were new friends by the end!

MORE of MELBOURNE... - VICTORIA, OZ

So I realize at this point that my blogging lacks in certain aspects of formatting – as in, Melbourne gets 2 blogs, and Bali (and all of the places I went in Bali) got 1!!!... Now that I think of it, it may be safer for you (the reader)… because (as you can easily see) I can write A LOT!
Melbourne ended up being the most laid-back traveling I’ve ever done! I camped out on my friend Michelle’s couch for almost 1 week (fighting a not-so-friendly infection.) The benefit with this was that I got to TRULY experience Aussie life… the TV shows, and home care, and daily ritual of what goes on… it was a “trip” in itself! And I feel so much for Michelle – as she was the same person who cared for me in Lima (along with our other friend Jo) when I became gravely ill last year!... coincidence??? Hmmmm… we’ll assume that “3rd times a charm” and that our next time together I will be 101% healthy! OH, and I FINALLY gave Michelle and Jo their special “thank you” present that has now traveled all over the world (including most of the USA) with me since April 2006… their monkey & burro finger puppets – it’s a Peru thing… for those of you who have been, you know EXACTLY what I’m talking about! J (I’ll attach a pic!)

I did managed to get up enough gusto to get out for one last night on the town before flying to Sydney. We traveled on the bus to Richmond – and I must say that the whole bus-tram-train system in Melbourne rocks!... talk about ease-of-use! Richmond has a long street stocked full of Asian food and markets. Jo, Gabi, Michelle and I grabbed some good Vietnamese grub, and then hopped in Gabi’s car to head back into the city center and walk up the edge of the Yarra River to the Blue Train Café for coffee & desserts – their specialty!... With the city lit up and reflecting off the water, bordered by nice river sidewalks and trendy shops & cafes, this area is very inviting in the nighttime.

Michelle and I caught the train together in the morning to Spencer St Station and I ventured onwards with my backpack to the airport, as she ventured to work… I certainly have the better end of the deal in this moment! ;)

MELBOURNE -Reunited 1/2 way around-the world! - VICTORIA, OZ

Melbourne - in the state of Victoria - set along the coast... is now my 3rd Australia stop. Grab your MetroCard, as this place is filled with trams running on trolley lines through most of the streets and a train system that jives with these trams - making travel to and from the city center, and around, very simple (except for the chilly temps if you get caught waiting a little while.) YES - it is rounding into WINTER here! (my summer mode has drastically come to a hault for the next 7-8 weeks!)

Tall buildings tower overhead the square grid of city center; cappucinos are dusted with wonderful cocoa powder; locals (and us backpackers who jump into the local scene) have Coles grocery bags (or xtra bags of some sort) to grab veggies, fruits and other groceries; one cafe after another fills street after street, as do some of the most amazing bakeries -- especially along Acland St in the St. Kilda area; the wind picks up blowing cool air in an encompassing cyclone; sailboats rest anchored in the harbor, along an outstretch of the pier; a "Little Penguin" colony exists, but isn't seen alongside the St. Kilda pier at the moment; Luna Park's wooden rollercoaster attracts a few visitors; book shops and other stores offer some of the latest trends interspersed amongst the cafe-lined streets.

1 year and a month later, I was able to reunite with Michelle & Jo -- after we initially met in Lima, Peru. Both of my "BT Sistas" (blue towel sisters -- an inside joke from our backpacking last year) live in Melbourne, and Michelle has taken me in as a roomie (along with her other roommate Jarrard, and his cat Munsta!) for my week+ visit!

We traveled all over Melbourne - via various public transportation options - pretty much non-stop for my 1st 48hrs in town! Taking to Victoria Market; the many 'arcades' tucked in the city -- filled with local cappucino lovers sitting in their cafes; Federation Square and the Buddha festival; the path along the Yarra River; St. Kilda & Fitzroy; walking along the beach, through streets, out onto the pier, and treating ourselves to many local specialties along the way. On Saturday night we went to an AFL (Australian Rules Football) game -- to see the Saints (Michelle's team) v. the Hawks -- I loved it! I took in the full Australian experience with the meat pie & sauce, Carlton draught beer, and the game! It was one of the worst games in history according to the locals (as there was very little scoring, and not the best playing,) but I didn't know the difference and thoroughly enjoyed watching & learning all about the game (and I most certainly didn't mind watching tons of good looking Aussie guys running around in their short shorts!) ;)

We met up with some of Michelle's friends for a b-day celebration in the St. Kilda area -- enjoying some bev's at two very cool bars -- Spuntino's & The Dog's Bar. The following night we took to the northeastern side of Melbourne's night life on Brunswick St.... sampling some microbrews on tap at the Provincial, followed by an outstanding meal at the Veggie Bar (a trendy, fun vegetarian restaurant,) followed by a little cuban dancing at the Night Cat -- the band was fantastic, the dance floor was relatively huge for a club/bar, and I did my best to keep in step in my trail runners -- the downfall of wardrobe choices while backpacking! (and flip-flops don't quite cut it during nighttime in this start of winter weather!)

At this point I'm nearly 2 days in on trying to catch up on e-mail and this blog!!!! TOO MUCH TO SHARE, and TOO LITTLE TIME to do so!

THANK YOU MICHELLE & JARRARD for sharing your flat with me... and allowing me to catch up on this blog -- finally!! :)

WA (Western Australia) - Fremantle

At this point I was wishing that my dear friend Jo was with me, as I had just left Darwin where I met a portion of her family, and I would now get to meet her parents (Richard & Rhonda) in person - at their home in Fremantle.

I was curious to explore Fremantle's artistic scene and "cappucino strip" prior to arriving in Perth. Little did I know that I would have the added bonus of getting to stay with Richard & Rhonda at their lovely home and enjoy getting to know Fremantle thru a local perspective! After a fantastic lunch at the Norfolk's outside patio, Richard & I took a walk around the city & harbor -- sampling some brew at Little Creatures along the way. We kept our evening low key and had the chance to visit and drink way too much wonderful Australian wine (for me, anyways) from their cellar collection below... which left me sound asleep shortly thereafter. The following morning Rhonda and I took off for a morning walk thru the neighborhood and along the beach and stopped at a fantastic little coffeeshop, Aubergine, for our morning cup a jo'. Locals filled the interior, and their dogs lined the exterior patiently awaiting their return. We ventured to the Fremantle markets after our showers and enjoyed 1 more coffeeshop along the cappucino strip before heading to the airport for my flight to Melbourne... where I was surprised 1 more time as Rhonda waited with me until I boarded the plane -- this is the only aiport that I personally know of, where your friends and family can still greet you at the gate.

THANK YOU RICHARD & RHONDA FOR ALL OF YOUR HOSPITALITY, "TOUR GUIDING" and too much wine :) DURING MY VISIT!!!!!!!!!!!

WA (Western Australia) - Perth

Perth is an absolutely gorgeous city! It's tall, gleaming buildings sit alongside the calm Swan River, and it is highlighted by clean streets, lush parks, colorful laurakeets (parrots,) and a plethora of trendy and unique suburbs. The city provides free busses around the city center to help its locals and visitors -- it was only after my 2nd bus ride that I found out that not all of the busses are free -- I am sure I had the bus driver laughing as I hopped on/off for about a 3-stop ride, oblivious that any fare would be due, until afterwards! To find myself still a bit lost in an English-speaking country is humbling and entertaining! At least I'm finally looking the right way when I go to cross the street... I'm just not riding my bike on the left side of the trail at all times -- probably some of their reasoning for the strict bicycle helmet laws in Australia!

There are trains and ferries that can cart you to Fremantle - Perth's sister city (I'm not sure how they refer to it exactly)... but they're about 20mins apart by car.

I spent my 1st night in Northbridge in a very unique hostel, called Governor Robinson's. It was tucked into a quiet neighborhood and was in easy walking distance to William's St. for some delicious vietnamese dining my first night, and Beaufort street for the following morning - where I enjoyed a brisk walk in the chilly air, as the sunshine slowly rose to warm me. I found an upbeat lil' cafe called Soto Espresso and enjoyed some nice lounge music, journaling and a "long black" before taking a walk through the surrounding neighborhoods for fun!

Later this same day, I had the chance to reconnect with friends (Tricia, Jim & Fiona... and their new dog, Stella) from L.A. that I hadn't seen since their going-away party in New Mexico nearly 2 years ago (when they were moving to Australia.) It was Fiona's 7th birthday, so we enjoyed an evening at her favorite restaurant - Fasta Pasta, had her charms put on her new charm bracelet, and she then proceeded to give Tricia and I the quickest, 1-minute manicures we've ever had, with some of her new beauty items! Having a chance to visit with each of them and see the school where Tricia works and Fiona attends, and also explore Kings Park, Bold Park and some of the surrounding area with Jim was an absolute joy. Our conversations could have continued for many days more... and they will someday in L.A. -- as they will move back to the U.S. in 7 weeks!

THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR HOSPITALITY, "TOUR GUIDE" SERVICES, and INSPIRATION JIM, TRICIA & FIONA!!!

NT (Northern Territory) - Darwin - AUSTRALIA

In a place known for its tropical weather, crocodiles and deadly box jellyfish (who prevent locals from swimming at their beaches 8 months of the year!), Darwin is a very laid-back, northern coast town in Australia that offers even more to its residents and visitors. The beaches and harbors are beautiful, the neighborhoods are quaint and peaceful and the downtown area offers some cafes and a nightlife that could rival most major cities. Darwin also serves at the hub for traveling to the outlying parks (aka, "the bush") - Kakadu, Katherine Gorge and Litchfield. I only managed to make it to Litchfield, after my trip to Kakadu was cancelled last-minute. On the way to Litchfield our 4WD truck started smoking (never a good sign!) so we ended up on the side of the road for 2 hrs, creatively coming up with games to keep us entertained in the middle of nowhere! Once we made it to Litchfield we swam in two different waterfalls, and only took in the view of another two -- as they have not yet been checked for crocodiles this season! It was a less than "bush" experience, but it was certainly a good representation of what the landscape of the Northern Territory has to offer. Distant views reveal how undeveloped the surrounding regions are.

Since I had extra time in Darwin, I took to exploring as much of the area as I could. I rode a bike up the coast to East Point and Nightcliff one day & visited the local museum to learn more about the indigenous culture & region. The bike ride also offered me spectacular views of the coast line and mangroves, as well as the chance to explore a couple more local villages. Unfortunately, I didn't have any wallabies greet me -- that was my #1 hope for this "push-bike" journey! My visits to the Parap Market & Mindil Beach Sunset Market allowed me to see Jabaru twice -- an Australian band that is composed of a husband & wife (Renee & Rodger Bradshaw) and the 30+ instruments that they play -- their talent is beyond belief! I found myself lost in the awe of the upbeat and joyful music that flowed from their market locations, on both occasions. The neat thing was that I actually saw a Jabaru (a large, white Australian bird... almost egret-like) fly overhead en route to Litchfield the following day!)

I met up with Penni, my friend Jo's aunt, who lives in Darwin. I had the chance to meet more of her family (Aurora, Sue & Simon) and enjoy a lovely dinner at her home. Through our conversation, she was also able to direct me to the markets and some of the best coffee spots in Darwin. We met up for one more cup o jo' before I flew to Perth. Such a delight to spend time with local friends!

THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING PENNI!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Arafura games were in town -- so athletes filled the streets, hotels and public busses during most of my visit. I took the time to visit with some of the paralympic athletes, and even end up on an evening walk n' roll with a few more wheelchair competitors... they were a trip! I was easily impressed with some of their 'tricks' in the chairs.

The Deckchair Cinema had just re-opened for the season, so I ventured over there one evening to see an independent film -- Burke & Wills... the film itself was not that impressive (rather dark, really)... but the environment of the cinema - kickin' it back in deckchairs - was fantastic! We were in the warm open-air, blanketed by stars above!

BALI - INDONESIA

In the states everyone hears about "Bali" -- I think most of our familiarity is tied in with beautiful beaches and dream cabanas alongside them.... YES, this does exist! MORESO, the Balinese traditions and internal offerings (off the coastline) are what I found to be BALI! In villages where the ritualistic making and placing of daily offerings is neverending; where you have to pay attention to where you step so you don't fall through the sidewalk (as their are holes along the way,) nor step on the day's offering that has been placed; where the local women are seen walking from one place to another with large stacks or bowls of items on their head; where men play chess along the roadside calling out "taksi" to you... and when you say "no thanks"... they say "maybe tomorrow?"; where Gammalongs' sweet melodies can be heard in the far-off distance; where monkeys are free to be monkeys; where rice is so precious; and where smiles are ever-present once you have shared one yourself...

Walking from the airport – after passing the death penalty warnings at immigration, for those caught with drugs – I am wandering the streets in search of some type of shuttle bus to Ubud. Ubud is an area north and inland from Kuta beach. Only one-two hours south from some of the islands biggest mtns – and active volcanoes for that matter, this town offers a spa, organic, ritualistic daily routine that becomes more and more enjoyable each day. With homestay options that have you tucked under trees amongst gorgeous family temples and surrounded by the local people and their daily offerings, this place offers you community integration from the very start.

My first night I met two girls from Quebec at a local café and we journeyed over to witness the Kecak Dance (the Balinese traditional Fire Dance) – and for those of you who have seen the film Baraka, you have seen it too… I was so amazed to witness the guys (a 100-man choir, as they describe it) in their chanting/dance ritual IN PERSON! I never knew exactly what the chanting was from when I saw the film… and to now experience it in person is so energizing! It was followed by two impressive trance dance segments, where two girls dance with their eyes closed in one, and a guy dances on burning coconut shells in his barefeet in the other. Each of these dances stems from a very detailed story-line (which would take me 3 more pages to explain!)

I wandered the streets a bit in the dark (such a joy to be in an area where it is considered relatively safe to do so) and stumbled upon KAFE. This is a traveler’s hot-spot, moreso for those into yoga (as Bali Spirit yoga studio is upstairs,) organic foods, and deeper conversations. The local people who work here are delightful, and the environment is extremely inviting with its wood community tables inside and out, low table & cushion seating along the wall, library of magazines & books for borrow, and all sorts of products offered in support of Bali Cares (a non-profit that supports local charitable projects.)

During my first 24-hrs in town I formed all sorts of friendships that would endure my week in UBUD, and most likely many years to come. Adriane (from Nelson, B.C.) joined me for some laughs in the monkey forest one afternoon and a sunrise journey up Mt. Batur (one of the active volcanoes.) By day two we were roommates and off to on our own self-made bike journey into the rice fields and villages on the outskirts of UBUD. As we rode back into town we spotted a side street and new cafe to explore... Bali Buddha. This turned into a typical "in the right place at the right moment" experience, as we ran into another friend from the night before and met a nice couple on their way out - Karen & Andrew (Ketchum, ID)... I immediately got caught up in conversation with Karen which then led me to Wayan, the traditional Balinese Healer up the street, the following day. Our entire group enjoyed many nights at KAFE and random meetings along the streets of UBUD.

I took to a 4+hour cleansing healing with Wayan and her beautiful staff, that left me glowing (literally - my skin was practically new looking!) afterwards. We became fast friends and I returned to visit with her for hours the following day -- getting to know more about her, her family, and her business... and enjoy some scrumptious vitamin filled raw veggies & fruits during our chat --watching me try to peel an apple with a knife the same way they do left us both laughing! I look forward to returning and spending more time with her in the near future!

Andrew & Karen had invited me to travel to the island of Nusa Lembongan with them, so I chose to spent my final overnight in Bali there. While on the slow boat (1 1/2 hours) over to the island I was in shock as I had never seen swells so big... the roll of the water was most likely 6-8ft high. It was even more amazing to me, since we were simply crossing the Strait of Lombok, but afterwards I learned that it is typical with all of the coral reefs in the area and seaweed farming. We wandered one section of the island upon arrival -- past many tarps of smelly, drying seaweed -- I dropped my bags at a room for the night and then we attempted to catch a ride over to Mushroom Bay on the other side of the island. Karen & Andrew's moped got a flat tire, so the three of us hopped in the back of a work truck and stood up holding onto a rusty bar in the back as we worked our way up and over the mini-mountain that lies in between... ducking our heads on occasion, so we wouldn't be whacked in the face by tree branches! After enjoying some lunch at the water's edge, we walked the trail back towards the main beach where I was staying. After a quick swim and beer, we parted ways for the night and I went back to my guesthouse. That same night I visited with some of the local guys a few guesthouses down, until exhaustion led me back to bed. My eventful morning beach walk (after a fall off a step that left my legs all sliced up by coral in the water below) was still relatively enjoyable. I walked out to the point of the island and passed many locals along the way. I then hiked over to Tamarind beach to meet up with "Blackie" & friends for a morning of snorkeling in a cove behind the island. The boat ride there was fantastic and the snorkeling was absolutely magnificent -- clear blue waters, huge/colorful coral, and bright-colored fish (including angelfish, clownfish, and puffer fish) -- and when a stong current came in we did our best to get back to the boat quickly so we could get out of there promptly -- too fun! I was a tad too nauseated for the 2nd dive, so I enjoyed a mini-siesta atop the boat in a larger cove we visited for the 2nd snorkel.

I returned to Bali's mainland via the fast boat (30 mins) and realized the advantage of the slowboat, as the fast boat left us flying over the swells and crashing hard onto the water below. So much that the offerings fell out of the wooden temple box above me and landed on my head at one point -- talk about good luck blessings! ;) I endured this crazy ride with 4 guys from Sydney who were staying in Kuta Beach -- we were all very entertained (and somewhat sore) afterwards! I ended up dropping my stuff in their room in Kuta so I could enjoy sunset at the beach with them, followed by a fantastic dinner at a little restaurant off Poppies I... then it was off to the airport for an overnight flight to Australia!