WORLD TRAVELS 2007

BRAZIL - Rio de Janeiro! ...uma outra vez!

2007-07-24T19:12:00.000-07:00

Time to take a few moments to relax and un-PACK from months on the go!!! Mingau-style!!!

ECUADOR - back in Quito!

2007-07-23T19:23:00.000-07:00

With the mountains in surround - to take in the views from above or below; to wander the streets and be amongst the people, the markets, the historic buildings, the expansive cemetery, and the towering churches - the best way to take it all in.

ECUADOR - Jungles, Rivers and Wildlife

2007-07-22T20:04:00.000-07:00

Nature and wildlife... intimate experiences deeper into the heart of Ecuador.

ECUADOR - hard to leave my new friends behind!

2007-07-22T19:18:00.000-07:00

After 4 days camping and trekking through the jungle and spending time with a handful of the kids from the Quechua family I was with, it was most definitely hard to part ways from them, as they are precious! We had so much fun swimming, drawing, playing and just learning little things from each other! I actually traveled to their home in the little town outside of Tena for my last night before heading back to Quito.

ECUADOR - deeper into the JUNGLE!

2007-07-20T18:54:00.000-07:00

Colorful butterflies, natural face paints and natural fibers... and a couple trees to climb too!

ECUADOR - Tena & the JUNGLE!

2007-07-19T18:41:00.000-07:00

I wanted to trek into the jungle for a few days and learn more about plant medicine & the local region and tribal rituals with a shaman... and I had the chance to get to know his entire family, swim in the rivers, climb up trees and sleep in caves full of bats too! Who would have known?!

ECUADOR - Banos... hot springs, horseback riding, and mtn biking on too steep of hills!

2007-07-16T18:25:00.000-07:00

Traveling with my new friends Fazila, Nahid and Gemma, we caught a couple taxis to Terminal Terreste (the local bus terminal) and we were off to Banos. The journey most certainly took a good 3.5-4hrs as the bus stopped to pick up just about anyone, anywhere off the side of the road, and to allow vendors on to sell popsicles, drinks, snacks and just about most any other thing you can imagine. A very interesting set-up indeed. This is very common in S. America, on most any local bus, but it was a little more intriguing to witness how the vendors operate on “direct” busses to destinations hours away! And those vendors who get on the bus in Quito and offer to help you put your stuff up above… NICE TRY! The roads getting to Banos are wind through the mountains and climb up and down in many different spots. Once you’re arriving into the town, the road turns to dirt for a bit, which slows things down enough to be able to take in the AWE of it all a bit longer!

Banos is a very small town completely surrounded by sheer mountain peaks – they are so, so tall! Waterfalls and lush-green vegetation encompass you. Hot spring thermal baths are found at both ends of town, and trails wander up into the hills from multiple places. Rivers flow alongside the main road that takes you to Punyo. And the quiet streets of this town make it enjoyable for a stroll day or night, and actually ‘invite’ you to visit the local stores, restaurants and tour agencies. Fazila, Nahid and I went in search of a local lunch, and accidentally timed it perfectly – as we sat down to enjoy the chicken soup, meat and rice and dessert, along with our orange fanta soda! It’s what was served to EVERYONE there – and we were the only tourists! Fantastic! A handful of restaurants stay open a tad later in the evening, which makes it possible to soak in the thermal baths ‘til 9 or 10pm and then grab a bite to eat and wander around the corner to a local bar.

We went horseback riding (Fazila, Nahid & I) with Jorge, and it was a trip! We worked our way up into the valley of the Turunguha Volcano from the city streets and our horses definitely had a little too much of a desire to run (if given the chance.) My horse’s name was Diablo (Devil) – enough said! Local men were working to install new water lines for the town water, as the canyon river bed was washed out a few weeks ago with a very big storm. It is quite a project they’re undertaking. We were the only other people up in this area during our entire time hiking and on horseback, so it was most certainly an enjoyable experience… especially after our failed attempt to bike up the other side of the mountains the day before – way toooooooooo steep! So we tried to ride bikes again this day after horseback riding, but found ourselves in such an extreme rain storm that we had to turn around a go back – per the local guy who decided to join us for the ride.

On the following day, when I was on a bus en route to Tena along this very same road, I was soooooooooooo thankful we turned back – nobody ever warned us of the multiple tunnels that you have to pass through en route to Punyo. Tunnels aren't the problem… it’s THESE tunnels, with room for 1 vehicle and pouring rain to blind you, that creates the non-favorable situation!

With its calm and peaceful nature, healing thermal baths, and mountain surround of adventure activities, Banos is somewhere you can most certainly spend a long amount of time.

ECUADOR - Mitad del Mundo... standing (upside down) over the equatorial line!

2007-07-15T18:15:00.000-07:00

The MIDDLE OF THE EARTH! - visiting ALL of the Equators! J
After grabbing a cuppa REAL jo with Joe and Jo at Caffeto in Old Town, we spent probably a good hour just trying to find the right bus station to catch a bus up to the equator. It was a tad insane, because each stop we went to they directed us to another stop! And so the scavenger hunt began!

2 hours later – once we made our transfer to the “Mitad del Mundo” bus, we arrived and began our search for the REAL equator. There is the super-hyped, and over touristly set French-discovered line that everyone goes to… there is an Inca discovered line that is a 30-minute walk from here up in the foothills… and then there is the equator line tucked a few blocks down at a very small and quaint museum of Inti-Nan. Interstingly enough, as we participated in various 0’0’0’0’… experiments, it most certainly proved to be the middle… and our guide there also explained that the equatorial line actually expands in 5.9km each direction, so technically all of the lines are ‘real’ lines, but that the greatest effects of the gravitational wonder can be seen right on the center of this line – after balancing an egg on a nail and losing the power to resist my friends force in lowering my arms, I would have to agree! I had to experiment with a handstand too – how often do you get the chance to do that?!

EQUADOR - Quito... a fabulous city in the valley of the mtns!

2007-07-14T18:08:00.000-07:00

WOW! Just upon flying in over this HUGE city sprawled along the valley floor of the surrounding mountains and volcanoes, I was already impressed – and very excited to be here! A drastic change from Guayaquil. I have learned the beauty of taking advantage of cab rides in other countries – get from point A to B and learn the local language and more about the area while you’re at it. I talk (surprising, I know!) with the cab driver and in S. America get a session practicing my Spanish (or Portuguese, in Brazil.) TOO FABULOUS!

Arriving into the Old Town (Historic District) I ventured the 4 floors up to the roof-top terrace of the Secret Garden – a far too popular hostel that has every right to be solely with the views it offers… you can literally sit here all day and just watch the weather patterns change – it’s that amazing! Quito’s streets in the Historic District are lined with old buildings, which are architecturally stunning! I have to applaud the city and local people on the work they’ve put into renovating and maintaining.this precious area. The streets flow with the rolling valley hills and little curvatures… and they are relatively narrow, so sidewalk space is limited – if even existent! There are various plaza squares dominated by large churches tucked into about every 6th or 7th block… there is Cemeterio San Diego – which is soooooooooo massive, it is beyond comprehension… and it sits up above a slightly sketchier neighborhood offering incredible views from a different vantage point, and offering a level of shock from the unbelievable number of more recent deaths (2005-2007) – the local people are seen throughout the cemetery with rolling ladder staircases so they can tend to their loved-one’s place with new flowers and usually a name plate cleaning too. Quito’s virgin statue looms in the distance just off the shoulder of the cemetery, and is lined up perfectly straight between the two clock towers of the large Basilica across the other side of the Historic District. You can actually climb to the top of the Basilica towers… and with the fright of some of these sketchy ladders, you can guarantee you’d never have this kind of opportunity in the USA! Homes line the hills – going up higher and higher, and all lined with their colorful clothing filling the outdoor lines while drying. There is a Teleferiqo, which is a gondola that goes to the top of the mountain nearest the Basilica. From there, you can venture to the top on foot and even jump on horseback if you like, or take off for a full-day or multi-day mountain trek. The elevation is the killer, as you’re well above 12,000ft. I was most certainly sucking wind, but doing so carefully – to avoid altitude sickness (which I’ve had one too many times!) Lying all the way across the city from the Teleferiqo is New Town… which is basically a backpacker, coffee shop, internet café, and adventure tour hub. It was very quiet and charming on each of the visits I made here – and I actually enjoyed seeing what some of the businesses have done create lively cafes and coffee-shops within old mansions. Tucked up in the hills a good 10-minute drive from here are the Guayasamin museums – Ecuador’s most famous artist – whose dramatic and often controversial pieces of art are now on display in two specially preserved areas – one a museum, and the other, his home. Overall, Quito would take probably a couple months just to get to know in its entirety. The local busses are most certainly the way to go, as they have their own center lanes and cruise by the bumper-to-bumper traffic, and they save you the miles of walking in between most of these places.

ECUADOR - Guayaquil... quickly in & out of this hot & crazy city!

2007-07-13T18:01:00.000-07:00

Oh craziness! I arrived and caught a cab – got ripped off before I was even out of the airport, so the game was on! It is really disappointing to have to be ‘on-guard’ and play hard ball with negotiations in some places we travel in the world, but sometimes it’s necessary to avoid being taken advantage of, while at the same time being respectful of fair wages and actively participating in sustainable tourism… such fine lines!

I arrived at the ‘fort knox’ (because it was a caged in fortress of walls in a randomly quiet neighborhood)… and I was already a tad skeptical. I went with the flow, arrived and met a super-cool new dorm-mate from Canada, who I began a conversation with. Luckily, she was willing to venture into the streets with me so I could go in search of some local food for dinner. We found a little strip of local seafood cafes in one tiny strip-mall like area, which was packed with locals. It was arroz con congrejo (rice with crab) for me – probably one of their most popular dishes in this area of Ecuador, along with ceviches.

Amidst bright sunshine and intense heat, Alana and I ventured to Malecon Bolivar the next morning and explored the new waterfront walkways and shops during a big festival with the coast guard, army, navy, etc… Kids were performing dances and singing, and booths lined the walkway with different information. Tucked a couple streets into the city were the highway-underpass markets, which are choc-full of all the cheap knock offs you could want in place of just about anything you can imagine.

A lunch back along the waterfront greeted me with one surprise – a 3ft. iguana strolled underneath my chair as I sat with Alana awaiting my meal – too frickin’ cool… this would be an immediate restaurant shut-down in the US… but here, it is just normal everyday hangin’ with the local wildlife – gotta love it!

The busy-city vibe of Guyaquil was a tad overwhelming for me, after just spending time in nature-laden New Zealand, and multiple days I the city of Santiago, so I caught a cab to the airport with Alana and decided I’d try to find somewhere else to go… this is such a wonderful experience (which I am starting to become a little too accustomed to) – just show up and pick a flight to somewhere, anywhere!... hmm, Galapagos and come back to find work immediately to recuperate the $1,000+ for a handful of days, or - QUITO! – bring on the local busses, walking and tiny food joints! 2-weeks for the price of 2-days in the Galapagos… heck yeah! (for now anyways – I’ll definitely journey to the tourist-trapped turtle-lovin’ islands once I have one of those paycheck things again someday! ;))

CHILE - Santiago... ahhh, back in S. America! :)

2007-07-11T17:54:00.000-07:00

I GAINED A DAY!!!!!!!! Now this is cool!
Arriving back in Santiago… years later – and the flood of memories from spending time in Chile resurfaced instantaneously. I ventured into the heart of the city (after wasting time trying to figure out the exchange rate AND deal with having to dish out 100 buckaroos for a new visa, since my passport had expired since my last visit – GO FIGURE!) This visit I had one mission – to get to know Santiago. I had only been into the city once before – and between limited time and a festival that was extremely overwhelming (streets packed shoulder-to-shoulder) it was difficult to get to know this place in a day-to-day manner.

I found myself settled into the Happy House (gotta love a hostel with this name!)… and it was just that… a very happy place to be indeed. It’s a well-renovated historic building in Barrio Brasil (even when I’m not in Brasil, I’m in Brasil!) – a 10-15 minute walk to the main square. Hardwood floors, old doors, and windows that peered out on the mountains in the distance.

The day was so beautiful that I was tempted to get into the mountains on day two – but no mountain biking or hiking was to be had – with it being the off-season, I would have to hire a private guide just to get to the mountain… I’m definitely not that desperate! I’d rather go self-sufficient… find the bike, find the bus, find the trail… but once again, time would be against me here… so I stuck to the streets and inner-city hills!

Santiago is a city that is so large, that once you gain a vantage point from a higher level, you’re left with a speechless ‘wow’! I walked across the city – through the Plaza da Armas, where the men were in a trance with their chess games and where artists stood in hope of encountering their next customer, pigeons were in flight, and stand-up espresso bars lined the outer edges; throught he pedestrian only walk areas, where shops and people cris-crossing in every direction makes for a dizzy experience; through a local playground where parents pushed their kids on the swings and other locals just sat and chatted on benches; along the waterway that lines one of the main roads, which is also lined by a park on the side – with bike and walk trails on a gravel sand path; and then finally through a more artsy club district to the base of the Funicular... the place where you catch the tram (a very old school train-like thing, where they actually have to touch a metal stick to a metal wire to get it to go! Yikes!) to the base of the virgin…. Straight up! I, of course, was going to walk all the way to the top of the mountain, but this idea was shot down in an instant when I inquired with a local woman at the bottom who told me (in Spanish) that I was crazy… as it is very dangerous to go alone!.... whether or not this is really true, I won’t know for now, but her eyes were convincing enough! On top there is an outdoor seating area where they hold church services, a special area for peoples prayers & lit candles, and a few stray dogs and cats. The views are spectacular – minus the L.A. style smog line. Afterwards I wandered through the business district and over to an old fortress in the center of the city… it was quite a little challenge to find my way up and down old staircases and pathways… but fun none-the-less! As I worked my way back to Barrio Brasil it was a great reminder that I was back in S. America, to see the local people hanging out along sidewalks having a conversation, or simply just leaning out a window and watching the world go by. BEAUTIFUL!

The nightlife was a very enjoyable experience for me, as I stayed in the Barrio both nights and went to resto-bars for dinner. The 2nd night was in a place just below the Happy House, where a solo musician filled the room with live music, and where Tobias (a new German friend of mine) and I talked well past closing hours.

As I took the shuttle bus back to the airport (at 6am in the morning mind you!) I felt like staying to explore the rest of Chile… so it’s a good thing I have a visa that will last 8 ½ years this time!

NEW ZELAND (N.) - Waiheke Island... a lil' side trip

2007-07-09T19:00:00.000-07:00

After traveling both of New Zealand's big islands, why not travel to the little island an hour off the shore of Auckland for a couple days?! Might as well see it all!!! I took to an on-foot, solo adventure along the coast of two major sections of the island during a 2-day period. I basically wandered along the edge exploring the variety of the landscape, posh housing and student research vineyards throughout my quest to find the trails at water's edge! You think it would be easy, but you have to take private driveways up to find the connection to trails, etc... kind of strange! Especially when you come upon big cows staring you down and mooing a loud one to get you to step back as you approach their pasture! Always an adventure!!!

This island is very calm and quaint... it was a very tranquil and lovely place to explore! The locals are laid-back and super-friendly, which enhances the entire experience!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - The road back to Auckland... again!

2007-07-08T18:53:00.000-07:00

After a beautiful hike in the rain in the early morning with my friend Erin up in the neighborhood rainforest in Pahia, it was time to be back on the road again! Other than for some fanatastic conversations with new friends on our roadtrip from Pahia back to Auckland, there's not much to really say -- the pictures represent what the entire trip is like! AMAZING (this word is SEVERELY over-used in this blog!)

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Cape Regina - 90-Mile Beach

2007-07-07T19:20:00.000-07:00

Ever wondered what lies up on the Northwestern peninsula of New Zealand?!~ How about a little sand-boarding, beach 'cruising' and more breathtaking views! Especially from the Northern most point at the Cape!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Auckland...after the rain, and N. to Pahia

2007-07-06T19:07:00.000-07:00

Nothing like a little photography fun post-rainstorm! Auckland - the "City of Sails" - definitely holds a waterfront appeal.

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Back to Auckland!

2007-07-05T19:01:00.000-07:00

Rainbows, seagulls and re-connecting randomly at a pit stop with my friends from Japan! Back to Auckland I go!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Napier Sunrise to Rotorua Adventures!

2007-07-04T19:00:00.000-07:00

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Coramandel Beach & Whitianga

2007-07-03T14:43:00.000-07:00

Hot beach, ‘Cool’ cove, and Maori-Style Bone Carving

“Sunrise, sunrise…” as Norah Jones would sing… ahhhhhhhhh, another magical morning on the beach, awaiting the sun’s glow! After such a great hike around town yesterday, I was jazzed to be up and enjoying a light cruise on foot across the small black rocks that comprise Napier’s beach. With pink clouds glowing over the distant peaks, bright yellow-orange outlining the clouds over the ocean, cool morning air, a cup of steaming Esquire’s coffee in hand, and silence all around – who wouldn’t be lovin’ it?! Along with 3 other people I could see in either direction, the beach was ours… lovely!

Cruising through Karangahake Gorge, just before the famed town of Paero, for NeZ’s L&P drink (too sweet for me!) – I switched buses in Thames to head up the Coramandel Peninsula. Driving alongside a cigar-shaped volcanic crater and past many lush green farms, it was a good day to cruise to the beach… especially one with a hot spring that feeds into the backside of it’s rocky point. With spades (shovels, that is) in hand, we took off across a pretty bustling little stream cut through the sand and started digging for warm water! It only took a scoop or two, and then you could begin to enjoy at least a super-hot foot bath (too hot at times,) and eventually sit in your own sand-tub if you wished!

Continuing on thru the day, passing beautiful homes lining the curvatures of the land bordered by Mercury Bay, we arrived at the walk track to Cathedral Cove. A quick 45-minute journey down to the sandy beaches below, I found myself in awe of how big the rock arch is! To add to the amazement, there are a couple stand-alone pillars that have been weathered away less than 10ft off-shore… stunning! To top off the shock of natural wonders, I met a family along the trail with 7 kids!!!... talk about making my life seem simple! ;) I was inspired to see them taking a journey by foot together!

After the hype and excitement of all sorts of things outside, we took a retreat inside... into a bone carving studio, after taking a ferry across the little riverway in Whitianga. There, I made a fish hook, symbolizing a whale tail into it - as I had just seen many whales recently... and wanted this Maori representation of strength, prosperity and safe travel over water, to have a little extra addition... as I find my 'song'. It was quite a process... took over 4 hours to work with electric drill files, sanding, washing and polishing... the steps and care needed to produce 1 little bone carving is unreal! It was a joy to learn and gain a greater appreciation for this ever-popular jewel in New Zealand.

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Wandering through the Neighborhoods of NAPIER

2007-07-02T14:37:00.000-07:00

Up early the next morning, Jalvo and I took off for an early morning walk to the local bakery in Wellington. We had to part ways rather premature, as he had to ferry back en route to Nelson, and I needed to continue on North to Napier. L Beijos e abracos – tchau, tchau… for now!

Not even 5 minutes after Jalvo left in his shuttle, I saw Rob walk into the lobby of Nomads – the very 1st driver I had for magic nearly 3 weeks earlier! So wonderful! I knew I certainly had a couple fun days of travel ahead.

The drive up to Napier was going to be a wet one… the rain was rather relentless! Stopping off at Mt. Bruce, it was a quick run over with one of my friends through the conservation center to check out the nocturnal environment they’ve created for the kiwis – the New Zealand bird! They’re pretty fun to watch.
Once in Napier, my friend Kelly and I decided to wander… through the neighborhoods of the N. Island’s east coast town of Napier. This area is choc-full of art deco… beautiful homes that have maintained their character from the 1930’s – of which I thoroughly enjoyed visiting, with my house being from the same decade – up and down over steep streets and through random sidewalk alleys and staircases - we wandered our way for 2½ hours… until we finally submerged our bodies into the hot saltwater pools alongside Napier’s beach, at Ocean Spa. Thankfully Rob recommended this… and joined us!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - PICTON, and a special side journey :)

2007-07-01T15:28:00.000-07:00

Enjoying sunrise and a full-moon descent simultaneously, I did not want to leave Kaikoura. It’s such a small and quiet town, with a charm that I hope to explore further someday. The snowy, jagged mountain peaks in the distance left me curious as to which treks may lie one-ridgeline below.

With no time to spare (unfortunately) I was back on the road… again! The drive from Kaikoura continued to follow each and every curvature of the mountain-lined coast, with the train track alongside. Jalvo and I scored the front seats together, and ended up next to our friend Katharina. We stopped off at a really random beach spot that was like an oasis – from the backside of full-window doors (of an extremely nice, stylin’ country-like café) led steep gardened steps and lush green grass out to the rocky shore and water. A perfect break for being out in the fresh air.

Upon arriving in Picton, Jalvo and I ventured off on our own. Pretty much everyone was ferry-bound for Wellington, and a few others were in route to Nelson (where Jalvo was supposed to be going!) Instead, we decided to catch a small puddle-jumper plane together (for $8 bucks more than the ferry – how cool is that!) over to Wellington, and have a couple hours to wander around and explore Picton. So I would now be working my back to the N. Island – from above!

The weather was quite a bit iffy and we had a quick venture through many grey clouds before arriving into the rainy weather Wellington had to offer me… once again! I ran into a couple friends at Nomads – our digs for the night – and shortly thereafter we ventured into the town (and the rain) to go in search of a warm meal. After perusing many menu options around town, we took a long walk around town before working our way back to Sweet Mother’s Kitchen – where I had a fantastic meal a couple weeks earlier. We managed to keep ourselves chatting well into closing time and called it a night.

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - KAIKOURA... beauty of black & white rock beaches!

2007-06-30T21:18:00.000-07:00

Kaikoura –
I woke up to spend the early morning silence in the darkness of Cathedral Square in Christchurch, before catching the bus super-early to head north to Kaikoura. The Cathedral is lit up so beautifully – fostering a special chance to enjoy being solo in the square without the crazy cris-cross of people during the height of daytime.

The drive to Kaikoura was mostly along the coast line. From 45-minutes out, we could see the peninsula that we would call ‘home’ for the night... where fur seals colonize and sperm whales cruise around not too far offshore!

De, Mags, Lucy (my Irish friends) and I chose to pile ourselves into our 4-bed dorm at Dusky Lodge together. Too much fun already! …and as luck would have it, I had even more excitement awaiting me at the reception desk, where I met Jalvo, a new Brazilian friend. He and I happened to have been on the same bus from Christchurch all morning, but didn’t meet until this time. We decided to discover what there is to do in Kaikoura other than whale watching… we tried giant crayfish for lunch with our friend Kelly, walked along the big black & white rock beach lining the waterfront, and took to the hot tub with a group of our friends at the lodge just after sunset. Oddly enough this lodge has a Thai restaurant tucked into a covered area out back, so most of us brought take-away tubs up to the main kitchen for dinner. Most of us left the lodge just before 10pm to venture to the Strawberry Bar (Irish Pub) for the All Blacks rugby game v. the Wallabies (New Zealand v. Australia – need I say more?)… oh, craziness! I love New Zealand rugby!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - 'NZ Roadblocks' & CHRISTCHURCH

2007-06-29T15:03:00.000-07:00

If you can imagine rounding the corner at 100Km's/hr and to find a TRADITIONAL New Zealand road block... A HERD OF SHEEP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OH MY! What a sight! I was sooooooooooooo impressed! Brings life into a very simple perspective... precious!

Christchurch was rainy, but still very charming. The architecture - their little side streets, and their main church & plaza... I found a great locals' coffee shop (C-1 Coffee) with Mags before we ventured to the local museum to check out the antarctic research station exhibits - which were WAY cool! ;)

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - Wedding Crashers!!! The journey to Lake Tekapo

2007-06-28T14:38:00.000-07:00

After a quick run up the "World's Steepest Street", Baldwin St. in Dunedin, we jumped on the bus en route to Lake Tekapo. Stopping off at the Moreaki Boulders - which are a natural phenomenon along a rather deserted and extremely beautiful beach along New Zealand's eastern coast (of the South Island, that is.) Also along this scenic journey was Mt. Cook - the highest mountain in New Zealand!!! Ohhhhhhhhh, how I was wishing it was summer and that I had my trekking boots strapped on! Mt. Cook has such a striking experience - especially with the turquoise lake in front of it! After driving some roads we technically weren't allowed to be on with a vehicle of our size ;), we arrived in Lake Tekapo and ended up spontaneously crashing a wedding at an adorable little church that sits lakefront - and in this moment I was thinking of how INSANE it is to try and be wearing a wedding dress in these frigid and icy conditions - crazy things that love can do to our mind!!! And to top off a beautiful day, what can be better than a little ice skating - especially when you're entertained by a group of guys who have gained 'confidence' from the local pub for hours before putting blades below their feet...my friend Mags and I were most certainly entertained! Afterwards we had a gathering of 20+ backpackers on couches inside our lakeside lodge to hide from the freezing cold weather and watch movies together! This was a good down-time stop for a lot of us...

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - OTAGO PENINSULA – Wild, Wild, Wildlife!

2007-06-27T20:45:00.000-07:00

As I sat in a little mini-bus traveling my way out to the tip of the Otago Peninsula (an extension of Dunedin, and the town of “Portobello”,) I was envisioning the pleasure of enduring this same journey via bicycle or kayak… the water of the harbor was still as glass, which reflected the boat sheds picture-perfect. The little two-lane road that winds its way to the end of the peninsula allows for a very enjoyable mini road-trip… as its shoulder is not so existent, nor forgiving – it will pretty much dump you into the harbor if you miss the curve! Thrilling! ;)

At the end of the peninsula is the Royal Albatross colony – it is so fascinating to sit on the edge of the grassy cliff, enjoying a ginger beer, and have a seagull-looking bird with a 3m (6+ft!) wing-span fly overhead! It was a special treat to spot one, on multiple draft cycles – as these are glider birds, and they need the wind to fly (they don’t really have the wing hinging system to do as much flapping as your average bird!) – and there was next to no wind this particular day. The conservation center at the top of the peninsula had a camera overlooking a baby albatross’ nest, and its furry little self was just chilling there – they can’t fly when they’re first born, so they have to wait for their mama to bring them food. I was relieved to know that people are actually working to protect these soon-to-be monster-size birds from being disturbed. J

This was only the beginning, as I traveled over dirt roads and around a very shallow lagoon (filled with kekaus (dark blue birds w/bright orange beaks,) harriers (predator birds, like hawks,) geese, kingfishers (small, striking little birds with teal wings) and pied-stilts) to the other side of the peninsula, to a local man’s property. His large sheep & cow farm sits atop a grassy point that is absolutely breathtaking. With deserted beach coves and rocky tide pools settled on each side below, it is a gem. Opening and closing several chained gates (to keep the farm animals in the right spot,) we worked our way down the steep grassy tiers to a steep gravel staircase that led down to the edge of the rocks and tide pools on one side… and there were tons of baby and mama fur seals camped out. Some of the young seals were playing in one of the deeper tide pools – floating on their backs and spinning around past one another. An adorable baby was nursing right in front of me… and became a little timid when it recognized that it was being watched… speaking gently to it, it cried back, along with its mom and a few from the colony. We slowly retreated, as to keep things calm and not make the seals too nervous. What’s amazing here is that the waves are crashing with such a strong force, that they often times sweep away some of the little ones… talk about a cold, rough life!

Hiking back up to the top of the point and then down the other side to the beach, we arrived to the sand just before sunset. I had my first chance ever to spend time observing sea lions up close & personal in the wild. I’ve seen them in the wild – but never playing around and chilling on the beach, nor chasing me back at points! The males are MASSIVE!!!! – they could easily flatten me! There were only a couple females and about six males on the beach and in the natural dunes at the back. Two males were teamed up chasing one of the females around – she was not too happy about this (and I don’t blame her!) They’d bite, bark, chase, roll, pin… time and time again. Many times we had to move over or retreat rather quickly to avoid getting caught in the middle of the chase! They were getting a kick out of having us for a visit… they kept looking over, and at moments would ‘speak’, confront or follow us!

As if this experience wasn’t already fascinating enough, the yellow-eyed penguins were making their way out of the water and onto the steep, grassy cliff-side at the end of the beach! Hiding out in a little cove to watch them (as they’re very shy) we watched at least 10 or 11 of them, most often in pairs, waddle their way from the water… too frickin’ adorable for words!!

The blue penguins in this area couldn’t be seen, as they hide out until nightfall. They were hiding in their little sand-dug coves right beside where we walked!

To top off this amazing wildlife encounter, we were able to enjoy this beach cove throughout sunset… the pink clouds, crashing waves and ¾ moon were phenomenal!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - JOE’S GARAGE and the journey to DUNEDIN

2007-06-27T20:32:00.000-07:00

After 3 nights, I was now enjoying my 3rd morning in Queenstown… an early morning that is… as I still have not seen Queenstown in daylight!!! UNREAL! With all of the activities beckoning on the outskirts, most visitors take off for day trips before sunrise and return after sunset. I was determined to find the locals’ coffee shop on my final morning in Queenstown… I knew it was called Joe’s something, and was located on a dark alley-like street… and such was the case! Joe’s Garage – tucked quietly away from the crazy-tourist scene… the people, the coffee, and atmosphere provided an exceptionally pleasant start to my day. As I was just getting ready to leave, I recognized a familiar jacket… it was my new Magic driver, getting his cuppa jo for the road… so I knew I’d have to make a brisk walk back up the hill out of town center to gather my things and be ready when he arrived (and I’m sure he wondered how I was going to do so!)

Scoring my fave spot during our road journeys – front seat – we were off to Dunedin… a very short drive in comparison to the past few road-trips, and lengthy journey to Milford yesterday. The sun was rising, the snow-capped mountain peaks were beginning to glow in soft pink at their tips, and the lakes and streams were still as glass… GORGEOUS!

Visiting with a few of my new friends in the Tin Goose Café in Cromwell, during a break from the road, we shared stories from our days in Queenstown. All of us arrived and left together, without any plan to do so. After leaving Cromwell, I saw golden, stringy-like trees roadside for the 1st time. The burnt orangish/red trees are all over New Zealand, but these golden ones were unique! We passed Clyde Dam shortly before arriving in Alexandra (the town facing the most extreme temps in New Zealand – 15 winter to 45 summer… yikes!... that’s like FL & upstate NY all in one!) The drive follows the South Island’s longest river, which reflected the mountains lining its edges beautifully. We passed many sheep, apple orchards, and vineyards along the way too. The perfectly bright sunshine and calm winds enhanced an already lovely journey.

Continuing on we entered lush, green hillsides, filled with many fluffy and shorn sheep. Passing through Lawrence, and arriving in Dunedin, it was much larger than I ever anticipated. All of the rather negative things I had heard about the area proved to be not-so-true. Yes, the nightlife, and adventure scene is not as prevalent, but it certainly has an entertainment scene, the largest student population in New Zealand, and a beautiful harbor and coastal setting. There is more kayaking, cycling, mountain biking, walking and other activities available than what meets the eye.

Dunedin is a Scottish colony, so its architecture is filled with this style, and most of the stone used to construct the local homes and buildings was hailed from Oamaru (just up the coast.) In the city center, it is set up in a double octagon… which is not only unique, but fun for exploring. Cinemas, cafes, and some niche businesses fill the streets, and then Princess St., the Main St. intersects the center of the octagon, and Stuart St. makes the cross “T” leading down to the most photographed New Zealand building – the rail station. Just on the outskirts of town is the “World’s Steepest St.” – Baldwin St. I thoroughly enjoyed my walk up it… however, I doubt that it is actually steeper than most streets in San Fran, or some of the mountain roads I’ve winded my way up in the past – hmmm???

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - WINTERFEST 2007 – Queenstown

2007-06-26T20:07:00.000-07:00

At -6degrees Celcius outside, you know that everyone must have a good reason for wanting to brave the cold and take to the streets of Queenstown after dark. How about some great bands on stages wharf-side and village-central, and a lil’ bit of fireworks to top it off?! Everyone had a reason to join in for a little dancing in the streets… cuz you’ll otherwise F-REEZE!

After catching the tail-end of the fireworks over the lake from the opposite side (I was still on my journey back from Milford,) I met up with Jack & Weronica and a couple new friends stage-side in the center of Queenstown. We danced a bit and then at the completion of the band’s performance we hid in the warmth of the World Bar for a brew (and so I could finally grab a quick meal.) A couple friends (from the night before, who had been on the Conitki Tour w/Jack) joined us, and we ventured down the street.

Altitude, a local club, was far more hoppin’ than the teapot shot scene at World Bar… and accumulated quite a crowd for late-night dancing. It was almost like a backpacker bus ‘spring-break’ party scene, to describe it. All it took was the start of some table dancing, and I said my “Tchaus” to my new friends and was on my way back to Pinewood Lodge to catch some zzz’s.

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - MILFORD SOUND… Fiord!!!!!!!!!!!

2007-06-26T19:54:00.000-07:00

Cruising out of Queenstown just before sunrise, the winter white peaks lining Lake Wakatipu’s edges highlighted the wonder, as the lights of Queenstown sat in a nice little patch behind us, which grew smaller & smaller, the further we traveled.

Te Anau (nearly 2hrs from Queenstown, by road) is the gateway town prior to Milford, and offers some stunning views from its lakeside as well. Geared up with some warm beverage “take aways” we began our journey over the hill (formed from the glacier thousands of years ago) that would drop us into the past-glacier valley… and Fiordlands National Park. This (now) paved journey is unreal! For nearly two hours more you wind your way through stunning scenery and massive mountain peaks looming overhead. Mirror lakes, river chasms, and valley expansive views are beyond fair description. With only one way through the mountains (unless you care to undertake a winter mountaineering experiencing over the sketchy saddle, as early explorers did,) is to pass through a very long, dark, icicle ridden tunnel… wild! The tunnel sits about 1000ft (about 300m, situated at 1200m) above the valley floor (900m,) so there’s quite a switchback drive awaiting you on the other side. The energy and excitement from this landscape will leave anyone “peaked” (local kiwi term for psyched) for a boat trip through Milford Sound… which is actually a “fiord”, not a sound, as it was formed by a glacier (sounds are not glacier formed.)

Anywho, technicalities don’t matter! THIS PLACE IS MAGICAL!!!! I had luckily read from another traveler’s writing to experience the sound (no pun intended) of Milford Sound, via boat. Encompassed by even more amazing mountain peaks, cliffs, ridges, and other rocky outcroppings, I felt myself overwhelmed with an even deeper respect for nature. Mitre Peak is the tallest mountain peak in the world from sea level… and it is one spikey tower of jagged, sharp, snow-capped ridgelines. Fur seals, dolphins, and other wildlife graced us with their presence as we traveled through the turquoise blue waters below waterfalls casting rainbow mist and sunlight casting shadows in various spots throughout this narrow water gap leading out to the Tasman Sea. Upon reaching the wide mouth meeting of the Tasman Sea, we were suddenly exposed to all of the wind elements that the mountains had been sheltering us from for nearly an hour…. Ch-ch-ch-chilly!!!! Whitecaps and headwinds overtook the peaceful sun-decking experience, and quickly ‘called’ for windbreakers, mittens and a retreat into the warmth of the Milford Sovereign’s well-windowed cabins. The sun was in full-shine, not a cloud in the sky… the dolphins were playing in a group alongside the boat… and I was in pure bliss… once again, inspired.

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - CORONET PEAK

2007-06-25T19:47:00.000-07:00

Another dream come true… (I’m realizing that I have long been awaiting my time in New Zealand!).... was to snowboard in New Zealand. My original plan was Treble Cone… but since its opening date wouldn’t be until my final day in Queenstown, I figured I’d have a little more ride-time at a closer, more snow-endowed peak… Coronet (which a few of my local friends recommended over Remarkables)… so there I was… A bus (with chains) ride later… excited to strap-in and get riding. The excitement was enhanced, as I was able to create a new playlist on my I-pod during the long bus journey the day before… energizing tunes, relatively decent snow and warm enough weather… only 1 thing missing… VISIBILITY! Minor detail, right?!

After a run from the central lift that left me unable to see anything – even with my goggles OFF – I decided to take a little break in the lodge below. As I wandered over to the cappuccino bar I noticed a guy sitting along with a “brasileiro” hat on… Jack(son), from Florianopolis, and I began chatting and then his friends & cousin joined us… we all had lunch together, and I returned to the snowy slopes with Stan, Weronica, and Steph for some fun on the easy riders.

I took a few more runs on my own after they left the mountain, caught the shuttle down, and we reunited a couple hours later for a fantastic Indian meal at Bombay – a restaurant tucked in off one of the main roads in Queenstown. We meandered around the city in the ultra-chill afterwards found a little gelato café to re-warm ourselves, before making a quick visit by a bar with a fabulous fire circle inside… and then calling it a night!

(I have no pictures from this day as the weather was too difficult!!!- bummer!)

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - GOING for the PASS!!! - Round up the convoy!

2007-06-24T19:36:00.000-07:00

A little bit of “Magic” and a few “Kiwis”… 6 backpacker buses (containing the pack of us that accumulated in Franz Josef & Fox Glacier) took off in hope that the pass would be open by the time we arrived… and so we ventured. It was quite the coordination on Dave & Rachael’s part to organize all of us according to where we were going and make sure that nobody was on a toilet run when the bus was ready to roll… kudos to them! We had a few brief stops – Fox Glacier (backpacker ‘rescue’,) Haast Township (for snacks and much-needed toilet runs,) and Thunder Creek Falls (to simply enjoy a gorgeous waterfall and few steps under the lush trees lining the path to get there!... and to allow the other bus companies to go ahead!)… then – the ICY/SNOWY roads…

It was a slow, and enjoyable journey (well, for us as passengers that is – I certainly wouldn’t want to be driving the roads we were presented with!) We made a pass by the bus that had been stuck on the pass for a couple days, but other than that – things were calm and the weather was absolutely beautiful!

We arrived into Queenstown so late that we could see the snowcat lights slowly streaming across the top of Coronet Peak… gaining excitement… wishing the bungy bridge (1st commercial bungy operation in the world) was still open! Each of us ditched our things in our respective lodges and raced into the center of town to line up our activities for the following day… it’s adrenaline central in Queenstown!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - Climbing Alex Knob w/Rachael…while “trapped in paradise”

2007-06-23T19:13:00.000-07:00

(For some wonderful reason I have a habit of being “trapped in paradise” anytime a storm or event occurs that causes me to be ‘stuck’ somewhere longer than anticipated. J )

Ahhhhhhhh, fresh mountain air! Gimme some lovin’! The brightest of sunshine, the softest of snowflakes, the climb…. Up and up, til we were higher than how high we actually stood!

Unexpectedly re-united after our brief chance to chat and share our love of the outdoors and passion for adventure during our short road-trip from Picton to Nelson about 5 days earlier, I was stoked to find out that Rachael’s bus was still in Franz Josef when we arrived. At this moment I had all-fingers crossed that we may be able to take off to the mountains together for some sort of activity… “be careful what you wish for”… you may just get it!

“Trapped” in paradise (due to the largest snowfall the area’s seen in 8 years, & the closing of Haas Pass, left us faced with very important decisions… which trek should we venture to on this LOVELY day?! Rachael’s recommendation – Alex Knob… a small looking peak that sat snow-dusted in the foreground of the larger snow-capped peaks that line the sides of Franz Josef Glacier. A quick little day-hike – so-to-speak… 6 hours on trail… 7 round-trip from the township of Franz Josef… trail-runners would be our choice shoe (especially considering my much-loved trekking boot selection is sitting in a nice row in my attic in NY – how convenient!!!)… bivy sacs (emergency wraps), headlamps, water, matches, utility knife, loads of yummy snacks, and extra socks & mittens… decked out in our thermals and wind/rain shells… so ready to go have a little fun and enjoy our unexpected extra day in Franz Josef! The climb up was consistently… a climb! We enjoyed some lookouts that were just spectacular – they overlooked the glacier in its entirety... the fern palms (I already forgot their kiwi name) were drooped covered in heavy, snow clumps… the path was wet from the melting snow on its lower sections, and as we gained elevation (and grander vistas!) we found ourselves stepping into deeper and deeper snow… until we were post-holing (stepping in w/shoes/boots, not snowshoes) up to just above our knees… and mid-thigh a number of times too – which had us catching ourselves as we sank on both the uphill & downhill… and also had us laughing & giggling like little kids with all the fun we were having! To top it off, we had the mountain/hill (whatever you choose to call it!) to ourselves for the entire day! Once we reached the summit… we had a 360degree view of the approaching storm clouds, glacier from an apparently equal heli-height, and views of the town of Franz Josef way below… so high that the bridge we crossed looked like a short line pretty much! It was cold – so, so cold, as we stood exposed to the wind – and it was gorgeous with the golden grasses of the tundra-like bush and wavy-shaped snowdrifts that had accumulated along the narrow trail. A few spots offered a long drop down if we didn’t care for our steps, which just added to the excitement… and reinforced my inner desire to skydive again! With very wet feet, pants and mittens, we happily returned to the warmth of showers and heated rooms just before darkness settled in. The Blue Ice Bar would await us an hour later for some tasty, warm pizza with our friends (who had taken to other activities around and on the glacier for the day,) before we all crashed for the night… missing the All Blacks Rugby game v. S. Africa & the America’s Cup too… as we were well into our dreams by 1am!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - FRANZ JOSEF...Glacier Trek Turn-around

2007-06-22T16:40:00.000-07:00

It was another rainy, cool and windy day of travel, but much shorter. We arrived in Franz Josef mid-day and quickly dropped our bags, made day-packs, and took off for a ½ day glacier trek. This would be yet another attempt at actually getting onto a glacier… after taking a 3-hour nap at the foot of the glacier in Bolivia last year, due to altitude sickness, and other challenges prior to that . We hiked about 1 hour in to the foot of the Franz Josef Glacier – enduring rain, sleet, snow and a thunderstorm (a new experience to have thunder & lightning at the same time as it was snowing!) along the entire journey. We froze our fingers strapping on our cramp-ons, while on a flat surface just in front of a very cool ice cave. We began our journey up the ice walls, clinging to loop-knotted rope lines along the way… and wouldn’t you know – less than a minute into being on top of the first part of the glacier, base called all of us back due to the crazy winter storm heightening. I couldn’t do anything but laugh – I am just not meant to trek on the tops of glaciers, I suppose! We had a very hurried rush back to meet the buses at the trailhead, before getting snowed in, so we ducked our way under the heavily snow-coated branches that now drooped over the simple trail we had just come from an hour earlier! It was wild! We got rid of all our wet gear and filled ourselves with some warm hot chocolate… ‘sunshine’ on a cloudy-grey day!

Anna, Emily and I raced back to Chateau Franz (our hostel) to snag spots in the 4-man hot tub before the 6:00 soup hour! Hot tubs, hot showers, hot soup and a fabulous room heater – all was good! …and entertaining, as our 3 Malaysian dorm-mates were on a different time schedule from us!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - Entering the “West Coast”… GREYMOUTH & Monteith’s Brewery

2007-06-21T16:35:00.000-07:00

Shortly after crossing over the mountains, we began our venture down the west coast… right along it! Talk about a PCH-like (Cali’s Route 1, that is) experience! Rugged coastline, some black beach sand, drift wood, random rocks, and crazy sets of very wind-blown waves crashing alongside. It was rainy and chilly, so it made for some very brief and wet stops along the way. I could easily see why locals encourage people to travel the west coast of New Zealand’s south island… it’s basically one postcard shot after another!

Greymouth - a smaller, sleepier town that has faced flood after flood and now boasts a lengthy floodwall that lines one of their main streets, actually has a bit of charm. The history and passion behind Monteith’s Brewery was very interesting to learn about (taking a tour seems to be the ONLY activity in the area when confronted with the weather conditions present)… and the sampling was beyond my brew capacity – so the guys I was traveling with were thrilled to be treated to extra pints!

The weather remained horrid during my 1-night stopover. All of us piled into one room, in one hostel and crowded around the fire to keep warm. The kitchen was filled with smoke… from the strength of the wind blowing the wood stove door open… I was thankful to move on the next day… it was good while it lasted, but I had my fill.

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - NELSON wrap-up...

2007-06-20T16:28:00.000-07:00

South Island S-weetness! Only a few minutes into being here I was already ‘sold’! Mountain ranges, Tasman Bay, adorable houses in the rolling hills leading back to the foot of the mountains… beaches, kayaking, hiking, biking, coffee kiosks and gear shops – what more could you want?! (well, other than for all of my friends to be here with me!)

I thoroughly enjoyed my time here, and managed to enjoy the town a bit, catch up on errands and other tasks, and visit with a few new friends I met at Accents. On my final night in town, Nick (new friend from the U.K. – kinda living in Nelson) and I went to the House of Ales to enjoy a wonderful meal, scrumptious desserts, and a conversation that kept us there well past closing!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - ABEL TASMAN – an entire day of ½ day hiking

2007-06-19T15:07:00.000-07:00

Thankfully, I met a fellow “Rammie” (CSU Ram,) Lindsay, at Accents on the Park (as she’s working there!) in Nelson. Not only was it wonderful to meet a fellow alum, it was also great to find out that the bus picking us up for Abel Tasman at 7:20am doesn’t actually leave the town of Nelson until 8am from the bus terminal… so Julie (friend from Ireland) and I walked to the bus station at 7:45 and allowed ourselves more time to chill in the morning! ;) …always a good thing to have the ‘inside scoop’ on things that you do!

Cruising past vineyards, shortly after sunrise… the Tasman Bay absolutely still in the early morning… picking up a few school kids and local workers to transport them to Motueka with us - love it! Motueka is a cute town filled with many more backpackers and cafes than I ever imagined. This is a spot I will look forward to spending time in during a future visit back to the area… when it’s warm enough to enjoy kayaking along the coast of Abel Tasman.

Marahau – the entrance town to Abel Tasman National park is extremely tiny. Big tractors pull trailers with kayaks and boats (filled with all of us!) through the streets and down the boat ramps into the shallow tidal waters. Most day-trippers take a little speed boat up to one of the coves along the coast and then walk back to town – along the famed Abel Tasman track. The track is actually the flattest, most well-kept hiking spot I’ve ever encountered… it was no wonder that a local guy went trail-running by us around hour 2! The trail winds in & out at each little inlet of beach and water and maintains a pretty steady, and very easy traverse along the coast. In the shade, the cool temps kept us moving. Julie and I managed to find a little overlook spot (due to a “green room run”) that was off-trail and also enjoy our packed lunches sitting in the beach sand at Apple Tree Bay, alongside some kayakers and seagulls. The crazy part – the shaded sections of the beach were covered in a snowy frost… talk about “cool” …literally!

The highlight of returning to Marahau was purchasing a hot beverage, from the local artist’s gallery, and stretching in the glass-sheltered open-air entrance at the trail-head. Our bus showed up shortly thereafter and we endured an insane bus ride back to Nelson, as our driver had some sort of speed-demon mission within him – had those of us in the front relatively on the edge of our seats!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - NELSON

2007-06-18T14:54:00.000-07:00

After hearing rave things about this town (New Zealand’s 1st city ever, in fact!) from Karen & Andrew in Bali, and then a few other friends I met along the way… I was filled with anticipation for an outstanding experience… so I decided to spend a few nights here. (Seeing Nelson's "live the day" sign as we entered the city said it all!!!)

I was fortunate enough to get to enjoy a beautiful hostel (Accents on the Park,) just off the end of Trafalgar St. (the main St.) and within walking distance of everything… including the hill where the center-point of New Zealand can be found… this hill was quite steep for its brevity! With the sun setting over Abel Tasman and the girls practicing rugby in the park below… looking down over the town of Nelson, from the center, it was without-a-doubt that I could thrive living in a place like this… such a special little spot! AND (there’s more!)... Abel Tasman National Park is easily within reach for all sorts of day-trips!

NEW ZEALAND (S.) - PELORUS

2007-06-18T14:51:00.000-07:00

NEW ZEALAND (N&S) - FERRY FANTASTIC – Wellington to Picton… silencing the sound

2007-06-18T14:47:00.000-07:00

Waking up to a rather rainy & dreary morning in Wellington, I walked across the street from my hostel to the rail station… visited the little espresso kiosk… and then shuttled over to the InterIslander Ferry Terminal. This ferry was unbelievable!... multiple stories with all sorts of lounges, cafes, kids playgrounds, side-decks and a roof deck. The 3-hour cruise across Cook Straight and through the Queen Charlotte Sound was gorgeous. Standing outside for most of the last hour, the chill of the cool air was unable to filter through me, as I was filled with the peace and beauty of the feet of the mountains lining the sound, along with the multiple inlets that we passed along the way. I found out that the ferry ride used to be 2hrs, but was causing too much of a wake that led to environmental destruction and neighbor disturbance within the sound, so they’ve now retuned to a more enjoyable pace… which I think makes everyone happy! (definitely allows for an extra hour of camera-filling fun!)

Arriving into Picton with a few of the guys I traveled with from Rotorua to Taupo and onto Wellington with, we awaited our Magic bus… and that’s when we met Rachael, our super-friendly, and very energetic driver. Eric, my driver for the two prior journeys on the North Island had mentioned the previous night that I needed to meet Rachael on the South Island, as we’re into all of the same things… wouldn’t you know it – she was the first person I met! I love how things work like that!

We made a stop at Pelorus – 1 hour into our trip - and had a chance to hang out at a beautiful swimming hole (clear-blue waters lined by great rock groupings to jump off of!)… nobody would be swimming this day – way too chilly for human skin!

The remainder of the trip seemed to be far too short – I think this may be in part to Rachael & I enjoying non-stop conversation.

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - TE PAPA MUSEUM – Wellington

2007-06-17T14:07:00.000-07:00

TE PAPA MUSEUM – Wellington
I am soooooooooooo impressed! I am not a big museum visitor, but I do try to take a peek at most museums I cross paths with during my travels… and this one was most certainly top of the list! Filled with regional information in regards to geography, natural events, wildlife, Maori culture, and more art and interactive displays than you could ever appreciate in one day, I was loving being showered with a wealth of information about New Zealand! Even more impressive was all of the different activities they have for kids here – this will be a must-do one day! ;)

Psyched up from my 3-hour experience here, I wandered the cold, dark and rainy streets of Wellington to make it to Main St. and find myself a warm spot for a salad – all I wanted after my time with the boys was vegetables! As luck would have it, I found the ideal spot – Sweet Mother’s Kitchen – and enjoyed a locals’ low-key trendy spot for a funky bowl of veggies! Afterwards I happened to spot a local bus headed for the rail station and jumped aboard to get back to Downtown Backpackers.

Eric (my Magic driver) and I sat at the bar talking for quite a while, and then conversation carried on for me when I met a couple of my dorm-mates upstairs… a pleasant and enjoyable rainy night!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - ROADTRIP w/the Boys!

2007-06-17T13:56:00.000-07:00

My journey from Taupo to Wellington would be a fun one – me and the 6 guys! We took turns hooking up our I-pods to the stereo system on the bus, and we took breaks to sample some fantastic treats along the way – including some of the local area’s renowned green-lip mussels and local microbrew. We sort of made up our day as we went along… stopping where we liked and enjoying a coastal drive that took us through towns with Maori names that sparked a pronunciation competition! The names were so complicated that we had to photograph the sign at the entrance and then attempt to say it! Road-trips create all sorts of crazy ideas, right?!

Rolling into Wellington just before the rain, we passed the ferry terminals (for trips to the South Island) and took a quick cruise through town before settling into our hostels for the night.

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - LOVE LIFE --- LIVE LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2007-06-16T02:34:00.000-07:00

On a day that seemed to start off rather normal – packing up and leaving my hostel, and enjoying a cup of coffee beforehand – I had no idea what I was about to get myself into. I boarded the bus with new friends once again and we took a little time to venture around Rotorua before working our way out to see more boiling mud (which is fascinating!), the eruption of the Lady Knox Geyser, and then walk around Wai-O-Tapu… the most colorful geothermal field I’ve ever seen. The Geyser wasn’t too impressive, as they induce it with soap (since it only naturally goes off every 48-72hrs… and that, I guess, doesn’t work with their tourism! – unreal!)… Wai-O-Tapu, on the other hand, was spectacular! I feared tourist craziness, and it was actually just a bunch of well-marked walking trails that allowed a handful of us to walk out and around the furthest loop – to the waterfall – it took about 1 ½ hours to cruise (rather quickly) around the fields – they’re huge and so diverse! With sulphur caves & crystals, turquoise blue water atop bright orange (ferrous) edging, and orange (“green-algae”) coated tree branches and bark… it’s an unreal site!

Our road trip took us past huge pine tree farms and beautiful countryside. When we reached Huka Falls in the early afternoon, I was immediately reminded of the bubbly-turquoise blue waters of the Petrohue River that Elizabeth & I rafted in Chile years ago… the longest river in New Zealand (the Waikoto) feeds into a very narrow chasm before making a 10m (30+ feet) plunge of extreme force into the perfectly light-turquoise waters below… the power can be felt as you stand beside. I was sooooooooooo wanting my mountain bike in this moment, as far too many trails extend deep into the forest from beside this waterfall… definitely next time!!! (oh yes, there will be a next time!!)

When I sat down on the bus earlier this same morning the driver, Eric, asked me what my plans were – I told him that I had been considering skydiving in Taupo tomorrow, and may stay two nights to do so… but that my dorm-mate had just jumped in Franz Josef, and I was now curious as to whether I should wait until I’m further south. Moments later he tossed the clipboard (to sign-up) in my lap and said you have a perfect day and you can go at 1:45pm… a 7+ year dream (specifically, to skydive in New Zealand) had culminated into a momentary decision… A guy from Taupo Tandem Skydive picked me up from Huka Falls and I was off to the land of jump-suits, handy-cams, propellers, parachutes and natural highs! A few minutes into the race around of trying to add an extra layer of clothing to my body, I met Kane, my tandem master.

I kept waiting for the moment when terrifying fright would consume my body – whether it be on the ground or in the sky above… it never did. Kane is tall, attractive, and of positive, happy-energy (which certainly added to the wonderful experience, and left me in an extreme state of contentment if this were to be the final moments before setting my spirit free! ;) )

We walked side-by-side to the plane – sort of like when you see the astronauts heading out to the space shuttle – waving bye to those staying below and focusing on what was ahead! There were 12 of us jumping – 5 tandems and 2 videographers… we crammed ourselves into the blue straddle benches within our tiny, bright yellow plane… oxygen lines dangling beside us… flying backwards – 360degrees of beautiful landscape below – “Load 007” (ironic!) – 15,000 ft jump – -16degrees Celcius (that’s a negative sign there!... c-c-c-cold!) -1:05mins freefall to 5-4,000 ft (the span for chute opening)… Kane and I were the last to exit the plane, after we dropped the 1st 3 tandems at 12,000ft and then cruised up to 15…

We sat on the edge of the doorway for a brief second, tucked our feet under the edge of the plane and then rolled into what felt like a weightless tumble… pure bliss! And it got better from there as he tapped me on my shoulder about 1-2000ft down and I was able to ‘spread my wings’ and FLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For a brief moment in my life, I got to be a bird (high-altitude bird, that is!)… PHENOMENAL!!!!!! And when the chute opened – pure silence arrived… WOW! We were floating above… chatting… taking in the scenery… filling ourselves with the chill of the fresh air and the feeling of being above the world… fully in the moment… incredible!
Kane directed our parachute to send us in all sorts of crazy spins that gained speed… this left me a tad dizzy and nauseated, but was fun none-the-less! Our landing was so much simpler than I had ever anticipated (I love taking off in things/going up things… I’m not much for landing/coming down from above)… we literally were able to stand up at contact with the ground… and then it took me a second or two to find my feet… ABSOLUTELY EXHILIRATING!!!!!

For the sole reason of wanting to freefall above absolute beauty, I waited too many years to skydive for my 1st time… and sooooooooooooo glad I did! TAUPO, in center of the N. Island – is a remnant volcanic crater highlighted by New Zealand’s largest lake, longest river and 3 active volcanoes…. A place where ‘heaven’ can be seen below! With active geothermal fields spread throughout the region, this area is soooooooooo alive that it is hard to describe merely by words – you have to feel it!

For something that I just couldn’t stomach paying for year after year, it was a priceless experience – something that I would most certainly recommend as at least a 1-time ‘must-do’ (regardless of the cost) for anyone who entertains the idea of exiting a perfectly good plane!

Now I am left wanting to jump again… today (with Kane, of course!) …ahhhhhhh, someday when I can re-stock the funds!!! There are other dreams coming up a little further along the South Island of my New Zealand journey… any guesses as to what those may be??!!!!!! ;)

DREAM…even if it takes 7 years and getting to NZ to reach it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - HUKA FALLS

2007-06-16T00:10:00.000-07:00

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - Wai-O-Tapu - Thermal Reserve COLOR-IFIC!!!!!

2007-06-16T00:05:00.000-07:00

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - ROTORUA

2007-06-15T02:32:00.000-07:00

ROTORUA – Geothermal fields, mud baths and bubbling mineral waters! It’s a thermal PARADISE! I had only 1 goal in mind for this entire visit… to find myself submerged in a real mud bath… and I found this at “Hell’s Gate” (literally, that’s the name of the largest Geothermal Field in Rotorua.) I toured around the fields with Liam for about 1 ½ hours before taking to the mud & minerals… I have never been so impressed by the power of our land. I submerge into nature all the time, subjecting myself to the elements – with a great respect for the trees, rocks and many other natural entities that far outlive us (humans,) and a great awareness that our world is changing in amazing magnitudes every second – the activity I witnessed in the geothermal fields is probably one of the most superior representations of what is always happening… what lies beneath.

Manuka tea is one of the most popular teas in New Zealand. It’s tiny little leaves can be seen lining many trails in the active geothermal fields. Enjoying a steaming pot of this with a little honey, post-spa Wai-O massage, medicinial hot water springs and mud-bathing is a highlight experience!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - MAORI CULTURE and HANGI

2007-06-14T02:31:00.000-07:00

Only a few days into my time in New Zealand and I am already so deeply intrigued by the Maori people and their culture. I attended a traditional warrior greeting (our group was actually led into the village by our “Chief” that we selcted,) dance and hangi dinner at Tamaki in Rotorua – although it was too touristy for my liking, I did find a deep-seeded enjoyment in focusing on the facial tattoos, eye movements, dress and intricacies of village living during my visit. The Maori’s dance, spirit and invitation is intimidating and inviting at the same time – it’s hard to describe. Each Maori I’ve met (now writing this 1 week into my NZ travels) has a genuine smile and exceptionally friendly demeanor – they apparently love & enjoy life to the fullest.

The Hangi (a full, traditional Maori meal cooked in stacked layers buried underground, atop hot rocks) is absolutely delicious! We sampled as many different foods as our bellies would allow in one evening.

Just when we thought our night was winding down, our Maori driver had us sing the entire way back into Rotorua… taking turns singing in groups from each of the countries we’re from – and topping it off with too many donuts around the round-about… such a trip! Nothing like having Taiwan, Japan, Netherlands, UK, US, and more in the house!

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - WAITOMO – Gloworms are REAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2007-06-14T02:30:00.000-07:00

Ok… now raise your hand if you curled up with one of these glowing little plastic Mattel creatures too many years ago (and I am guessing you have to be between the ages of about 22-37 right now, for this to apply)… now I wonder if our parents knew these creatures really exist?! THEY DO! And they are actually found in 10’s of 1000’s in the caves of Waitomo (a few hours from Auckland)… it is sooooooooo wild to be slow boating through on the river inside the cave and have the ceiling lit up by too many fluorescent green lights to count… wild! The cave itself is extremely impressive too – it’s tucked into quiet farming country… and if it weren’t for two explorers that happended to be on the river below, when they spotted an opening into what seemed to be a cave - people may still not know that it exists! (***Sorry folks -- there are no pics of the gloworms... you can't photograph them - as a flash will decrease their fluoresence, which they need in order to attract their food -- I sure don't want to hurt these lil' creatures!!***... just imagine black sky filled with tons of little fluroescent green dots as 'stars'!)

NEW ZEALAND (N.) - WANDERING the STREETS of AUCKLAND

2007-06-13T02:27:00.000-07:00

With no map in hand (the best way to go sometimes!)… a wander up into the heart of the mass of big buildings that tower over & comprise downtown Auckland. In search of a good cup of coffee with my friend Francis, before searching for the mountain gear shop (Bivouac) and speaking with my new friends at Magic – where I would begin the composition of my month in New Zealand. So I took to the “Spirit of NZ” route… so I’ll be hopping on/off a backpacker bus all over the country – N. & S. Island… f-f-f-reedom (from extensive thinking and lack of ability to get somewhere!) ROCK ON! …so I figured I’d begin this freedom journey with an attempt to walk back to where I came from – without the map (I never had in the 1st place!)

GOODBYE QUEENSLAND

2007-06-12T02:26:00.000-07:00

GOODBYE QUEENSLAND… cold, early morning – double the blankets!
Waking up early for a flight is one thing… waking up at 4am (after going to bed around 1:30am) in a very cold room (because you’re in an old colonial house with open wooden slats, and it’s winter!)… is frickin’ c-razy! So it’s now about 4:45am and I’m sitting outside with my big pack upon my back and waiting for the shuttle at the transit center (thankfully, just across the street)… and it’s slience – in both sound and lack of people presence – it’s eerie! I managed to find enjoyment during my 25-minute wait, as cars passed by with kayaks and surfboards atop – my sunrise surfing heroes! I LOVE IT!

Slept all the way to the airport (gotta love shuttles!)… took care of a few biz items in the terminal and then I was taking in gorgeous views from cloud-level above.

Arriving in Auckland quickly returned me back to the cold snap that we had encountered a few days earlier – bum deal! I settled into a great little hostel in Parnell that Kerstin referred me to – met their beautiful cat “Dude” (gorgeous Himalayan) chatted w/Ian about using the yoga studio in their front yard (this is TOO cool!), and then walked around for a short bit – to explore the reserves tucked behind the home (these are backyard canyons turned dog-walking reserve – fascinating idea!)… grabbed some food from the little mart and made dinner in the hostel… my ‘fine-dining’ days had abruptly come to a hault! (the expenses of OZ will destroy any backpacker budget!)

QUEENSLAND, OZ - HOLD ONTO YOUR COFFEE!!!!!!! It’s gonna be a wild ride!

2007-06-11T02:25:00.000-07:00

As the ‘3 O’clock coffee hour’ rolled around, Kerri and I grabbed our cuppa jo for the ‘road’ (sand tracks, that is) and so began the laughter! IT WAS HILARIOUS! The ride was so bouncy, that we were using our towels to hang onto the lids of our drinks, and our deep belly laughs weren’t doing much to help! Our vehicle had to make many stream crossings and race to beat the flow of the tide… leaving us beached at our 18-mile mark – bogged down, standing by the dunes at the back of the shore, contemplating how we would handle being stuck here for the night… and 30mins later Mal had us dug out and racing down the final track to catch our barge… just in time for a gorgeous sunset of many bright pinks, oranges and blues… and a long ride ‘home’ (to Noosa) thereafter. I had a surprise though – my friend Lyana (who I met two weeks earlier on my trip to the Blue Mtns) was behind me on the barge! Our two truck loads had to combine into one, so we had nearly 2 hours of talk time to catch up! Gotta love our SMALL world!

A quick shower and Kerri and I ventured into town for dinner… and we ended up being not only invited into a birthday celebration for a random guy at Zachary’s, but his entire group of friends immediately adopted us into the group like we’ve known them for years! It was champagne, gourmet pizza (a New Zealand thang,) and more fun than we could have ever imagined! Once the party dissipated and the bar was closing down, we chatted w/two nice guys from S. Africa and Sydney… who are both originally from the U.K… and as our conversations ran, it was relatively obvious that our brains were in the “how do we go about living here?” mode!

QUEENSLAND, OZ - CAN YA HANDLE THE EXCITEMENT?!

2007-06-11T02:24:00.001-07:00

As if day 1 on Fraser Island wasn’t incredible enough, we topped it off with a 2nd that was even more spectacular – IMAGINE THAT! Now we were watching sharks and whales swimming in the turquoise waters below... along with the lone surfer I referred to above... it’s amazing to watch the way people will gather in the possibility of witnessing a shark attack in person! You’re standing upon the edge of this cliff (no guard rails mind you) and just wanting so terribly to shout out to this guy below that the shark is only 2 waves back, or that the mantaray is below him! ‘Adrenaline observation deck’ is what they should name this place!!!

I swam in the cold, bubbly saltwater of the Champagne Pools – which are filled by the most recent crashing waves against the coral break wall that meats the oceanfront… tossing some beautifully striped fish into the pools… like floating in a homemade saltwater aquarium really (surface scuba diving without gear!) Of course this area gained its Aussie highlights when 3 of the more local gents strolled down with their stubbies and boardies and just sat at the water’s edge… classic!

Lunchtime! Why not hang out with our sandwich and juice box overlooking the ocean… and the humpback whales migrating in the distance! The first whales I spotted down at the pool proved to ‘disappear’ before anyone in the group saw them (luckily my guide saw them when I shouted out – otherwise they’d be thinking I was crazy not too long after when they didn’t resurface)… so, when Kerri & I were chillin’ up on the hill with our lunch and spotted them again, I called only to Mal (our guide)… and he was so impressed a few minutes later that he grabbed the rest of the group… grab your cameras folks!

The race against the tide back to the south end of the island proved to be very exciting. We had to take little track cuts behind the rocky points, as the water was completely covering our sand highway (YES, this is literally a highway (and landing strip,) and has speed limits and police!)

FRASER ISLAND - Another Beautiful Day... - QUEENSLAND

2007-06-11T02:23:00.000-07:00

Another beautiful day… but something is different… something in the air – sunrise is gorgeous – Kerri and I are playing around on the beach with a small handful of new friends, Dingoes are wandering very close by, and the sun brings in that early morning orange-glow upon our faces. Cold feet and cool air… it’s a special time to enjoy the ‘highway’ hours before the cars are flying 80km+ down the fresh sand tracks!

And that feeling of ‘something in the air’ – well that was tied to a dream that was about to come true for me – to FLY in a very small (non-commerical jetliner) plane! I made a spontaneous decision within a couple minutes to partake in this opportunity – sitting co-pilot, taking off on the freshly washed in sand runway, and above the turquoise clear-blue waters and sand dunes of forested Fraser Island – there I was! WOW! An exhilarating feeling! I expected (for so many years now) that a flight in a plane this size would be extremely rough – bouncy and wind-drifted… to my surprise it was absolutely peaceful… even the loud noise of the engine and propeller weren’t a bother -- the sights were far too fabulous! I spent the entire flight in disbelief that I was actually flying like this! We cruised around the island for about 20 mins, which was FANTASTIC! We had a chance to see Lake McKenzie and Lake Wabby (where we were yesterday) from above… and all of the sand dunes we walked and how thick the forest cover was where we drove. The landing, was the softest ever (probably because it’s a small plane settling onto fine lil’ sand grains!)

FRASER ISLAND - Queensland - AUSTRALIA

2007-06-10T04:04:00.000-07:00

Just off the coast of mainland Australia… is a paradise of crystal clear sand perched lakes, sand dunes, breathtaking coastline, and more dangerous animals than you would ever care to know about! Tiger sharks that come in to shore up to the legs of the fisherman… this alone keeps local surfers from paddling out (well, at least all but one guy with a potential death wish who paddled out during our time atop Indian Head – a rocky outcropping overlooking the sharks, mantarays, stingrays and other sea creatures below!)

My friend Jacindie in Katoomba (Blue Mtns) kept saying “you have to go to Fraser Island”… and I kept replying day after day… “I just don’t have enough time to make it all the way there – I sure wish I could go.”…less than a week later, I met Kerri – she had a rental car and a plan to go north… I had a plan to chill in Byron – doing yoga, surfing & kayaking… then came the downpour of rain, and next thing I know we are spontaneously on our way to nowhere and somewhere altogether! OF COURSE we ended up within ‘touch’ of Fraser Island… and that was that!

After a quick 14-minute barge (ferry) transfer with our monster 4-WD vehicle over to the landing at the south end of the island, we were off to the sand-wheeling race up 75-mile beach, swerving around the water swells as it brought the waves in and out from the shore. We were bouncing, slightly fishtailing and laughing our way through the soft sand… the sun was shining… working our way up to the inland tracks that would take us back through the gum & palm tree-filled forest to Lake McKenzie. The most sought-out spot on the island… for its rain-only filling… pure & fresh blue, BLUE water…

As if this wasn’t already enough… we walked over the sand dunes into Lake Wabby in the afternoon – how spectacular to have forest on one side of the lake and sand dunes on the other! The water was sooooooo cold… I opted to walk in it, rather than venturing in for a swim in this vegetation, green-hued paradise…. Plus, I was far too fascinated with attempting to photograph the little red-headed bee eater birds in the trees clumped at the top of the nearest dune!

We spotted our first dingo (the wild dog of Fraser Island) just after enjoying sunset photo ops on the beach… he was crossing the driveway in front of the little market by our resort (oh yeah, we’re talkin’ bunk beds with kitchenette! ;))… definitely looked like …a…. dog. Now that I think about it, it didn’t look all too different from the similar looking collection of stray dogs in southern Africa.

We met a new friend from Germany, during dinner and we proceeded to close down the resort café… drinking instant coffee! Beauty of the “IN BETWEEN” (if you know what I mean! … hope this finds ya smiling Kerstin & Kerri!)

You know when you have such a wonderful day that you just don’t want it to end (O.K., so almost all of my days are like this!...but,) this was one of those moments when we talk until we fall asleep! (and, NO, I don’t always talk ‘til I fall asleep!)

QUEENSLAND, OZ - EUMUNDI MARKET

2007-06-08T02:29:00.000-07:00

Post-‘brekky’, we’d realize how poor our timing was, as we missed the bus to Eumundi by a few minutes, and would now need to wait 1 hour… we wandered the shops of Noosa Heads and then enjoyed our 40-minute local bus ride through Tewantin and Cooroy to Eumundi. The markets here are HUGE! It takes hours to get around to all of the various kiosks that exist. We tried a few new foods, people watched, and simply enjoyed exploring – before catching another bus back to Noosa!

Of course the sunshine had to make a slight break and tempt me to hike some more… and off around the coastal track of Noosa National Park I went. Crossing Alexandria Bay and Sunshine Beaches to connect my trails, I found my way up (the big cliff!) and into the town of Sunshine Beach, perfectly timing a step onto the local bus back to Noosa with a super-friendly driver and beautiful sunset to enjoy! Ahhhh… so lovely!

QUEENSLAND, OZ - MORNINGS in NOOSA

2007-06-08T02:28:00.000-07:00

It feels like home to me… People are up at the crack of dawn… with kayaks or surfboards atop their cars and cruising towards the beach prior to sunrise… others are already on their way back running along the National Park’s coastal boardwalk & trails, shortly after sunrise… and some are just happy with a beach workout and swim in frigid water far before any typical body would naturally desire this experience… and everyone tends to filter towards the cappuccino laden cafes and smoothie bars… and we haven’t even reached 8am!... it certainly reminds me of the training Ironman athletes in the Lake Placid region – out riding bikes via headlamp in the middle of the night and filing into the cafes for a bagel and hot drink thereafter! FANTASTIC!

With the entire day left ahead… hike, bike, hiked some more… spend time with friends… enjoy a hot shower… and hope to find a Koala bear tomorrow – since I couldn’t spot one today!

Kerri & I randomly ran into Julia on the street – we hadn’t seen each other since Byron Bay a few days back… such a treat (and even moreso, since she was up & walking again!) We didn’t realize she’d be in Noosa! Nor did any of us realize that we would actually be there too! ;)

We teamed up the following morning to walk to the forest in search of Koala’s once again… and thank’s to our friend Brigit – I saw my first wild Koala ever! Too, too cute! He was curled up on the v-section of a branch in the tree above a hiking tail… kind of waking up, but not doing too much!

LACK of LOTS in LISMORE… a sleepy lil’ town… - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

2007-06-07T02:28:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Lismore and were looking for somewhere to eat for dinner – we never had lunch, as we were too consumed with making it to Minyon Falls in the Whian Whian State Forest… and getting lost in there too! – so when we did finally make it to a town with food we had to hold ourselves over w/a bag of chips til restaurants opened at 6pm! In Australia, if it’s a dinner spot, they usually don’t open/start serving until 6pm – so we had to wait for the doors of Miss Lizzie’s to open… and we were glad we did – fun waitress and fantastic food! Now we would have to entertain the challenge of finding somewhere to crash for the night… so motel hoppin’ we went… and opted to pay xtra for the new room and a good, comfortable nights sleep.

The rain is gone… the shoes are gone… we’re gone!!!!!!! Back to Byron Bay with hope of finding Kerri’s trekkers that were left behind the day before… Of course a trendy cup of jo at the Left Bank, smelling the roses (literally, as we sat next to the rose garden!)… followed by a follow up cup, many mountain towns later – when we reached Bangalow. Bangalow is a quaint town 14k’s from Byron Bay (actually – a good Sunday bike ride!)… Kerri and I both fell in love with this quiet spot. We continued on pretty quickly, as I wanted to catch the farmer’s market in Byron before it closed (since we were actually going to be there!) – for some reason I’ve become addicted to exploring markets around-the-world… they are all so similar, yet so very different at the same time.

Once we reached Byron, we realized that the water was still too choppy for our liking, in regards to a sea kayak trip… so we were on our way again… NORTH! Driver, navigator, windshield wipers to go left or right, right of ways… oh, this would prove exciting! ;) We spontaneously made a turn off to the highway to Surfer’s Paradise for lunch… kind of a disappointment for both of us, as it was way too touristy and way too far off the road – but I think we’re both glad we went anyways (ya don’t know, if ya don’t go!) We passed through Brisbane at rush hour (oh yeah!, gotta love timing!)… so we had a little extra time to look at the surrounding buildings and river! We found a little pizza place somewhere in Noosa and had a blast… so much in fact that Kerri made a spontaneous decision that I was driving the rest of the way (all 5 minutes of it) and that she was going to have another drink! OK, so now to test my skills at driving on the NOT-so-right side of the road…thx K! We made it into Noosa Heads pretty late (no complications, other than me (too) using windshield wipers as directionals!)… Prior to dinner, I was a bit agitated (o.k., SEVERLY agitated) from sitting all day – my craving for some activity had left me a bit grumpy, so I figured I’d get a good night sleep and be up early in the morning for a run (nothing like taking to the quickest way to release a lil' pent-up energy!)… this was before I wiped out in the driveway on a patch of algae on the edge of a large puddle… I soooo asked for it! That downward spiral effect, ya know?! Jeez! Now like a little kid w/a pretty not-so-pretty skinned up knee! Oh well… gotta get the laundry done and get ready to go enjoy tomorrow! (Luckily Kerri found Brad Pitt’s ‘twin’ at our backpacker’s bar to keep her entertained for the night since I was not good company!) ;)

BYRON BAY ...from above - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

2007-06-05T02:49:00.000-07:00

Twisted Sista was so fabulous the day beofre (when Julia and I discovered it,) that Kerri and I decided to begin our day with a cup of coffee from there, followed by a sunshine-filled journey up the coastal trail to Byron Bay's beautiful lighthouse! Every spot along the trail offered gorgeous blues of the turquoise & green waters below... surfers peacefully awaiting the next perfect slow-rolling wave... humback whales in the distance... dolphins surfacing in groups... sea turtles and large mantarays floating in the perfectly clear water for our viewing... and sharks too!!! It was wild! I have never encountered so much excitement from one rocky point in my life!

Our experience certainly supercharged our day -- we topped it off with a lovely brekky (back at Twisted Sista, of course!) and then moved Kerri's stuff into the dorm with Julia and I at the Belongil Beachouse, before renting some sweet orange beach cruises and riding out to the end of Tallow Beach and into some neighborhoods and then out to the other side of Byron Bay in search of the Byron Bay Cookie Company... for being such a popular place, neither of us were impressed with their cookies -- bum deal! At least our ride was fantastic and the quest (for a cookie, of all things) was thrilling too! ;)

The town was pretty quiet this evening and we found a little spot to grab a wonderful glass of Australian wine and enjoy a nice meal before the absolute downpour of rain arrived.... this would only be the beginning of the wet...

BYRON BAY ...and Tallow Beach - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

2007-06-04T03:32:00.000-07:00

Hmmmm…. A gorgeous beach, highlighted by the ideal looking lighthouse on the rugged peak jutting in between the bay and ocean… and miles upon miles of more beach just around the corner... and tucked inside the sands is the town of Byron Bay – filled with delicious lil’ cafes, natural food stores, and all sorts of spiritual and new age products... hammocks, bike trails, surf boards, yoga classes, surf kites, kayaks… yeah, I could easily handle living here!

To top off an already incredible area, I was in shock with my newest dorm mate, Julia. She left the room at 5:45am (this was following the night I arrived, and before we met)… but she left without her stuff! I figured she must be a ‘live-in’ at the beach house, but come to find out she went for a 2-hr journey, to run to the lighthouse for sunrise! MY IDOL! So, needless to say, we were inseperable from that moment forward… lovin' our adventure to Tallow Beach... well, that was until Julia sprained her ankle so terribly that she had to return and was bed-bound for two days…:( ...so I volunteered myself as the ice pack, cappuccino and choc chip cookie nurse! The guys running our guesthouse were requesting my nurse services by the time I left! ;)

SYDNEY - Yum Cha! - Bondi & Coogee Beaches - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

2007-06-03T03:27:00.000-07:00

A fun day spending time with Amalina & Emily before leaving Sydney for the Gold Coast! They took me for my 1st Yum Cha experience... quite the event on Sundays in Sydney!!! We followed this up with a venture into Bondi beach... a popular surf and beach-path running space that is favoured by locals and tourists. We took a wander around the weekend market (pretty cool!) and found ourselves a fantastic cup of hot coffee from a local bakery. We made a brief camio in Coogee Beach (I hope I have this spelled right!!!) - catching a brief glimpse of sunset - before we ventured on towards the airport. It was a full day that went by far too fast! (well, possibly some of that is because Amalina and I played around making with I-pods and music CD's on the computer all morning!!!!!!!!!!) :) It was most certainly a relaxing and enjoyable day with two dear friends!

THANK YOU AMALINA, MANDY and FAMILY for having me to your beautiful home in DEE WHY!!!!!!!!

SYDNEY - Back at Manly Beach - Food & Wine Fest 2007 - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

2007-06-02T15:44:00.000-07:00

Waking up to gorgeous views, overlooking Cocoa Beach from Amalina's home, it was a sure guarantee of a wonderful day ahead. Most of our group from the night before had stayed at the house, so we enjoyed a big breakfast before heading down the hills into Manly. Purchasing our wine glasses (along with their necklace-carrying coozies) was the beginning to our turtle-pace wandering past the different stalls offering delicious Australian wines. The sun was out, the beach was bright, the streets were packed... indian food, ice cream, sparkling shiraz, reserve cabernet... too much! We found ourselves full and quite chilly by later in the afternoon - the sun sets so early, seeing that we're in winter here! Amalina and I ended up chillin' at the house for the rest of the evening - chatting, sharing music, and simply enjoying doing much of nothing! ;)

Blue Mountains to Dee Why - A Train Trip & Reunion - SYDNEY, NSW, OZ

2007-06-01T15:38:00.000-07:00

As hard as it was for me to leave the precious mountain town of Katoomba and the energizing Blue Mountains of OZ, I had exciting times awaiting me in Sydney... I was reuniting with Amalina & Emily - who I met in Itacare, Brazil in Feb 2006! Our days amongst the beautiful beaches and cobblestone streets as we geared up for Carnaval was the catalyst to long-term friendships! NOW, in Dee Why - North, up the coast, from Sydney... I found myself in Amalina's beautiful home - such a treat! Her sister Mandy and I ventured down to Dee Why beach and enjoyed some coffee and scrumptious desserts as the sunset lit up the surfers within our view. Our conversation kept us there well into the moonlight - allowing us to watch this beautiful orange, harvest-like moon rise up from the horizon to send a glowing strip of light across the ripples of the water, in the exact direction of where we sat... such a beautiful night. AND, our night continued as Amalina returned home from work and had organized a dinner party at the house with friends... including Emily! Our meal and time together was fantastic! After a couple glasses of wine, lots of music, and the start of late-night ping-pong, I knew it was my cue to catch some zzz's (after having woke up super-early in the Blue Mtns to get one last hike around town in before leaving! :) ) The views from the house - and the bedroom Amalina invited me to stay in - were soooooooo reminiscent of Bird Rock & La Jolla, CA... bringing back fantastic memories and a deep, heart-felt serenity associated with the ocean and cliffs.

AND THE ENERGY CARRIED ME BACK INTO THE CANYON… - BLUE MTNS, NSW, OZ

2007-05-31T15:28:00.000-07:00

Still not able to leave, I sent e-mails to my friends in Sydney and took a 1000+ step trip down the “Giant Staircase” behind the “3 Sisters” (one of the most prominent rock features in the region) – all the time chatting with a friendly couple from Sydney - and made my way to the Leura forest. It was so rich in green and silence that I had to just stop and sit in the middle of it… I was probably in the canyon floor for close to two hours and never saw another soul… PERFECT! It was just me and the very loud cockatoos, bell birds and lyrebirds! I kept hoping I might see another wallaby, or even one of the much-feared giant lethal snakes (as there are a good handful of them here)… but no go! The climb back up to the top of the canyon followed a line of cascading waterfalls – how frickin’ cool is that?! I think I had my memory card running on overload the whole way up! I sat in the sunshine and wind up top to enjoy my lunch at the edge of the cliff for quite a while and then took to the upper cliff trail (my Amphitheater track along mid-canyon was out of the question, due to a recent landslide.) I wandered for nearly two hours more and had the chance to enjoy the Bridal Veil Falls lookout (Telluride anyone?!) and Tarpeian Rock all by my luckily lonesome self! PURE BLISS!

My friend Jacindie (who lives locally) recommended that I make my way to Café Josophans for chocolate waffles… so I walked into Leura through a very big and quiet neighborhood stretch – passing B & B’s along the way – and found myself in chocolate heaven! Seriously – they have a chocolate fountain in here! I wasn’t really wanting to indulge on something this ridge – but I was told this was a “can’t miss” thing… so an hour later I walked out on a sugar high and chilled outside with a cockatoo who had decided to fly in and have a waffle itself… atop the menu sign for the café – talk about ideal advertising! ;) The way he/she was holding this waffle so delicately with one claw and biting off the smallest of pieces which where then made further smaller by a tongue and beak tearing pattern… so interesting to witness from a foot away!

Still revved up from this day’s venture, I figured I’d walk back to Katoomba from Leura – the distance wasn’t much more than 3-4km’s, but the hill would be a good lil’ jaunt… why not?! Might as well just walk until I can’t walk anymore!!! J

By this point I knew a small group of people in town and the guys running the hostel knew me – so I basically visited with friends for the next 6 or 7 hours! So wonderful!
My morning coffee shop, the Elephant Bean, even asked me if I was moving there – and of course my answer was “you never know”… because I am subject to doing RANDOM things like this… can we say KEENE, NY?! … oh, yeah, and I also have that slight tendency to live as far apart as I can from myself… why not try all the way across the world, instead of just the U.S.?! …regardless – I will be back to climb the rest!!!

IT CAN ONLY BE FELT… the ENERGY of the BLUE MOUNTAINS – NSW, OZ

2007-05-30T15:16:00.000-07:00

I don’t even really know where to begin in trying to describe the Blue Mountains in Australia…. They are MAGICAL! Something happened – along the same lines as with the Adirondack Mtns in New York – for me here… I got “the bug.” I fell so in love with this area immediately that I couldn’t get enough of it… nor could I leave!!! The only difficulty I ran into here was trying to make up my mind as to WHERE I wanted to explore – there are far too many beautiful & precious places tucked within these deep canyons and quaint townships. A new friend of mine was heading to a local favorite – the bigger 6-fall track of Wentworth Falls… the Ruined Castle loomed 6-hrs in the distance… and Australia’s Grand Canyon ended up as the repeat tune in my mind for over 24hrs, and therefore drew me in – for another solo journey – and I had no idea WHY at the time (which is usually the most fascinating reason to go!)

I missed the train by minutes… I caught the bus within minutes… and I recognized the road name I needed (a couple km’s from town) and managed to hop off the bus in time to only be about 2+km from the trailhead! A quick run into the Bush Rock Café (the ONLY café or ‘shop’ so to speak in this mountain neighborhood) to grab more grub for the trail – snacks weren’t going to cut it… I needed real food! I spoke with Mark (the owner) for a few minutes and he reversed my route by recommendation… and what a thrill it was to start with the highlight – Evan’s Lookout – over the Grand Canyon!! This left me bouncing along the trail (yes, I literally ran down the stairs into the canyon floor!)… well, with one side trip ½ way down – on a “no through” trail to a cliff… to eat lunch, sit in silence, and capture some beautiful photo moments. It was me and one little tuft of bright pink flowers… a perfect flat surface for yoga… and not another person to be heard or seen… and bright sunshine as the “cherry on top.”

Once I finally descended the remaining portion into the canyon floor, I found myself amongst tropical fern-filled forest, a creek, waterfalls, and abandoned Aboriginal cave work spaces… and quite a bit of darkness, as the sunlight can’t reach this depth all too easy – not dark enough for a headlamp, but not light enough to be tank-toppin’ the trail!
It took me a couple hours, and quite a bit of river rock hopping and ducking under cliff outcroppings along the edge to reach the short tunnel through to the ascent… oh, can we talk about a good lil’ bout of cardio and leg burning… I used photo opps as an excuse to catch my breath a few times… and then indulged on a homemade Chai tea at the Bush Rock Café once I returned to the road – hours later! Too revved from the journey, I decided to tack on an extra 5km’s… and walk into the town of Blackheath, along the Great Western Highway.

Once in Blackheath I became a little sidetracked with watching a large flock of cockatoos munching on tree fruits/seeds back in a neighborhood that I wandered into… which actually caused me to miss my train by literally 2 seconds! I was on the platform – but with no ticket! Sooooo, back to the bus after visiting with a couple locals in the Altitude Deli. And that’s the way it goes!

I was so stoked from my day that I was absolutely beaming. I spent my night back in Katoomba visiting with friends and enjoying the lovely Blue Mtns YHA (hostel.)

“NARROW NECK” - A Mountain Bike Ride to Remember - BLUE MTNS, NSW, OZ

2007-05-29T01:26:00.000-07:00

Awaking to a morning filled with bright sunshine, and cool fresh mountain air… ahhh, lovin’ it already! I had no idea what time it was as I awoke, but once our entire dorm was stirring (8 of us, in all) I managed to dig out my watch (after days without use) and realized it was only 7:40am – I was stoked to have the entire day ahead!

I walked into town in search of a coffee shop, and found myself in the Elephant Bean Café only a few minutes later – it’s a good climb up Katoomba St (the main drag,) but it’s only a few blocks long – love the mountain towns! My new friend working as a barista in the café was quick to catch onto my order, and asked me if I wanted my coffee NY, Brazil or Idaho style – at this point I’ve figured out that I can ask my Aussie baristas to pull a short, sweet shot of espresso and fill it up Americano style – vs. the Australian “long blacks” that leave you with a sour taste and way too much caffeine feelin’!

After stocking up on some extra water, fruit and a deli sandwich for lunch, I hired (yes, this is “rent” in US English) a mountain bike - shocked to be asked if I wanted a Trek or Gary Fisher…a clear sign that I’m near REAL mountain trails! – and took off back through town and onto Narrow Neck – my ride for the day. A GLORIOUS, GLORIOUS DAY – PICTURE PERFECT – few clouds in the sky, sun shining brightly, cool mountain air with a light breeze (at my back for the start… always preferable ;) )…and with a quick right off Cliff Dr, I was descending down a windy dirt road into the start of my adventure. I was referred to this ride by a new friend I met in the hostel the night before, and he forewarned me that it contained hills that were too tough to ride up… and I was thinking this wasn’t conceivable, as it’s a fireroad – but come to find out – at one of the very first climbs – he was speaking the truth! It is virtually impossible to keep the front tire of the bike on the ground – that’s how steep it is! (and one of, if not THE, steepest fireroads I’ve ever ridden.) Up & down, and up & down… through the cover of the different Eucalyptus trees… over a little sand… maneuvering through chunky little loose rock… and all 17kms to the end… an ideallic view, off the edge of a cliff – overlooking Sydney’s water reservoir and pure wilderness… the “LIVE” (instead of “dead”) silence was absolute; the birds were serenading a chirping sound in the distant valley below that sounded like the chirp of fire alarms as the battery is dying, but much sweeter; the sun was warming the upper center of my back, and the wind blew lightly – keeping it warm and breezy – a perfect Autumn day. I almost didn’t know what to do with myself… I was all alone – I saw absolutely nobody on my entire journey to the ridge’s end… and I wanted to do everything… to nap, to eat lunch, to write, to take photos, to do yoga, and explore all of the edges… which led me to lunch, yoga, exploring and photography!

Only 1-2 km’s into my 17k return to Katoomba’s town center, I realized that I had a slow leak in my back tire… and was thankful that I had 2 bike pumps… until I realized that neither was doing the job! And if the pump wouldn’t work, my spare tube wasn’t worth anything either. I was so content with where I was and the weather I simply sat in the dirt and messed around with the tire for a bit… still no luck! And that’s when ‘my angels’ appeared… 2 local guys who were on their way out to the end – who used their pump and had me back on the trail within minutes! The ups were starting to kill my legs by the last couple hills – to my surprise. I think it was a sign that it was time to hike when my tire returned to a completely flat state 200yards shy of the paved roads that would lead back into town. I messed around with the bike a few more times, but simply resigned to the fact I would be walking… which simultaneously took care of my plan for an afternoon hike! (be careful what you wish for, right?!)

A much-loved (and needed) hot shower, a load of laundry and a cup of fine coffee later I was back in business! I made a side trip to the local co-op to refill my water bottles, picked up some veggies at the supermarket, and returned to my hostel for a night in with friends! The Blue Mountains YHA (youth hostel) is ranked #2 in the world – and it is well deserving of this status – with its beauty, cleanliness and functionality – it is more than inviting!

I feel the urge to climb into my bunk bed… and sleep with the sound of sweet rain outside! J

SYDNEY to the BLUE MOUNTAINS… a 2-hour, full-day journey! - NSW, OZ

2007-05-28T01:27:00.000-07:00

I jumped in with an adventure tour to serve as my transport up to the Blue Mountains for a little self-made 3-day (now 4-day) retreat! After traveling all over the city of Sydney accumulating one backpacker after another, we were on our way to Olympic Park, en route to the mountains. I wandered around the park just a tad and had a chance to get up close with the torch, main stadium, and volunteer remembrance poles… the design and layout of the park is fantastic – the activity of it is ghost-town like… which is shocking to me after being surrounded by the liveliness and spirit that lives on in Lake Placid from the Olympics there.

An hour later we arrived in Blue Mountains Nat’l Park and headed 2 valleys over to an area called Euroka – specifically to the trailhead for Bennet’s Ridge (I was SO wishing I had my mountain bike and a couple hours at this point!)… we wandered down into the grass fields leading to the valley’s creek, and got to hang out with 3 kangaroos!!!!!!!! Well, not too close, as their wild… but close enough that we could really spend time watching their every move, in a rather intricate detail. [Disclaimer: we were told by our guide that they are kangaroos, but some people I’ve crossed paths with believe they’re wallabies… either way – they’re adorable and they hop!] One thing that did surprise me is that they lay down on the ground and chill out like dogs do!

We grabbed lunch in the township of Glenbrook, and wandered around a tad. This small town was filled with locals in the park – quite a few playing tennis – and in the little cafes and markets. From here we ventured to Wentworth Falls and took a nice 1-hr hike along the ridge, and down into the valley’s temperate rainforest along the Undercliff Trail. The views were spectacular!

And there’s more… after a quick trip into and through Leura, we arrived in Katoomba 5mins later and went to their Scenic World area to walk down the Furber Stairs (about 1000 of them – steep down the side of the mountain) to get next to Katoomba Falls, and meet up with the train that makes its way straight up the edge of the cliff back to the top… backwards… through a tunnel… with you feeling like you will slide off the seat if you don’t brace yourself – it was so surreal… and therefore, I loved it!

We had many amazing views of the well-known “3 Sisters” (3 jagged rock formations beside each other, on the edge of the cliff)… and we stopped for 1 more on our way back into Katoomba, where I would say goodbye to all of my new friends (I was the only one staying in the mountains.)

MANLY...Little Manly, Manly Beach & Cabbage Tree Bay - NSW, OZ

2007-05-27T01:06:00.000-07:00

Following one of the most scenic and calmest ferry rides I’ve ever encountered, I found myself 30mins later in Manly Beach. This area completely reminds me of San Diego in many different respects… La Jolla, NSW – Australia??? Cabbage Tree Reserve is tucked in on the cliffs above Cabbage Tree Bay – with sandy trails wandering to the edges at various points for extremely distant views. Cabbage Tree Bay is filled with scuba divers, snorkelers and swimmers – just like La Jolla Cove. There is a path along the edge that allows you to walk from the bay over to Manly Beach – and this beach is almost identical to the size and wave style of La Jolla Shores (minus the pier.) Bikers and rollerbladers share the beach/park trail and intertwine with walkers at various occasions. At the end of Queenscliff beach, where the trail turns inland – you find a peaceful park and stream inlet, lined by a few family homes… before reaching the main road and huge park filled with rugby and soccer players on a sunny Sunday morning! I rode quite a ways along the road and explored the neighborhoods a bit… but I have to admit that I felt ridiculous wearing a helmet on a beach cruiser bike (Australian Law) so I ditched the bike back at the rental shop and returned to being flip-flop bound.

There is a cool little café along the beachfront called the Barking Frog – which offered a table for one, amongst the open air and sunshine. I was able to enjoy a little journaling and a chat with Tamara (from Colorado, living in Sydney right now.)

I spent the entire day exploring the area… and as sunset approached I ventured up into the neighborhoods of Little Manly and admired a Kukabarra hanging out on the telephone wire above – just chillin’ with the sunshine lighting up his chest.

The ferry ride back provided some spectacular post-sunset lighting/views of the Sydney Opera House and coastline… I have to admit that I timed my ferry return for sunset… and I am glad I did so!

The Rocks – an area just aside from Circular Quay (where all of the ferries come in and out) has trendy little cafes and shops in an older historic district that now resides below the Harbour Bridge. Zia Pina’s (a tiny Italian restaurant) called my name and I decided to take in a warm meal before catching the train back to Kings Cross for the night.

SUNSHINE in SYDNEY!!!!!!! - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

2007-05-25T01:25:00.000-07:00

It had been quite a few days since I had seen full-blown sunshine in Melbourne – I missed it so much! Now I find myself in this very beautiful space, still full of towering buildings and bordered by the harbor… which is busy with speed boats and ferries. Additionally, I know that there are many beaches and mountains to be seen! Sooooo, the adventure begins! (finally, after my down-time in Melbourne!)

I jumped in a shuttle bus (started to remind me of Africa, as we were starting to get packed into this particular mini-bus, and I was sitting backwards)…ended up with a bit of a full tour of the city prior to being the last one dropped off at the Pink House – the hostel where I would attempt to find a room… but here (in Sydney, that is,) the hotstel reception staff takes random 1-2 hr breaks!!!!!!!! So, I sat patiently in the courtyard and chatted with a nice guy from France and was quickly invited to join in on a game of monopoly with 3 other friends of his who were arriving – I was tempted, but the desire to go walk/bike in the sunshine overrode! I did manage to get a room, and I was off!

I ventured along side streets and random stairwells working my way along the fingers of the harbor… walked for probably about 2 hours total… and managed to see all sorts of beautiful things that fill the composition of Sydney. This included: a long wharf lined with posh lofts above trendy cafes; Pott’s Point – the ultimate view of the opera house (at sunrise, that is;) through the Royal Botanical Gardens (stopping to admire some storks and cockatoos along the way;) around-beside-next to-under the Sydney Opera House and Opera Café walk; around to the Rocks and Cottage Bay… and so forth… I found a newly opened art gallery featuring some of Nelson Mandela’s artwork reflecting on his time spent on Robben Island… ASTONISHING! HE IS SUCH A GIFT TO OUR WORLD! I think I ‘hopped’ out of the gallery with inspiration after my visit!

I felt confident that I could handle the trains in Sydney after learning the system in Melbourne, so I ventured to the platforms – it was simple, but I know I did entertain some of the locals, as I tried to find where my platforms were, and which direction the trains were actually traveling! OF COURSE I chose to start from the biggest, most complicated station of all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I returned back to my hostel (after a few accidental side streets and meeting a very nice Indian woman…) and arrived to 5 new dorm-mates from Singapore! I think it’s the first time I’ve ever had a full-out dinner party going on in my… bedroom?! Too funny!

Day 2… up early to venture to Toby’s Coffee House (found the organic brew tucked into a 5 mini-table, triangle café)…and found the locals there when I arrived… in hordes! I was lucky to score a seat! I made a decision to switch hostels (as I was ‘odd man out in my room – and it still smelled like dinner!, so I worked my way – after negotiations at a few places – down to Eva’s Backpackers… much better!!) From here I ventured onto Paddington afterwards to check out the markets and Oxford St… and the Sydney weekend scene and local neighborhoods – ALL of the above were fantastic! My wandering took me to the edge of Centennial Park which drew me in with a magnetic force and spit me out a few hours later, post bike-ride and mini-hike! I had to visit Max Brenner’s chocolate shop on the way back, as it is OVERPACKED with locals hour after hour… serving up some of the most exciting chocolate concoctions you could imagine! From fondue to drinking chocolate to shakes, coffees and cocoas – this place was unreal! You can choose if you want milk, white or dark chocolate in your drinks… enough said?! (even the ‘water pipes’ along the ceiling contain chocolate!)

I watched the tail end of sunset from the rooftop of my hostel and read a little more from my book – Down Under, by Bill Bryson – he cracks me up! His humor & writing style are fantabulous! …and my timing on this book couldn’t be better!

Missing Venice Beach and my yoga scene there, I found my calling for this evening at Govinda Yoga and participated in some Kirtan with a very sweet & fun guy from India who led it! Afterwards our entire group traveled upstairs to their restaurant’s back room for some yummy vegetarian food and conversation that kept us there well past closing! I was stoked to know that a few of the new friends I met were going to be headed to Lake Shrine in Pacific Palisades, along with their SRF (Self Realization Fellowship) group – it’s almost like we’re trading places! It was certainly a treat to have a ‘taste’ of home (and actually feel ‘in place’ in my beloved yoga clothes) with random strangers… who were new friends by the end!

MORE of MELBOURNE... - VICTORIA, OZ

2007-05-24T01:16:00.000-07:00

So I realize at this point that my blogging lacks in certain aspects of formatting – as in, Melbourne gets 2 blogs, and Bali (and all of the places I went in Bali) got 1!!!... Now that I think of it, it may be safer for you (the reader)… because (as you can easily see) I can write A LOT!
Melbourne ended up being the most laid-back traveling I’ve ever done! I camped out on my friend Michelle’s couch for almost 1 week (fighting a not-so-friendly infection.) The benefit with this was that I got to TRULY experience Aussie life… the TV shows, and home care, and daily ritual of what goes on… it was a “trip” in itself! And I feel so much for Michelle – as she was the same person who cared for me in Lima (along with our other friend Jo) when I became gravely ill last year!... coincidence??? Hmmmm… we’ll assume that “3rd times a charm” and that our next time together I will be 101% healthy! OH, and I FINALLY gave Michelle and Jo their special “thank you” present that has now traveled all over the world (including most of the USA) with me since April 2006… their monkey & burro finger puppets – it’s a Peru thing… for those of you who have been, you know EXACTLY what I’m talking about! J (I’ll attach a pic!)

I did managed to get up enough gusto to get out for one last night on the town before flying to Sydney. We traveled on the bus to Richmond – and I must say that the whole bus-tram-train system in Melbourne rocks!... talk about ease-of-use! Richmond has a long street stocked full of Asian food and markets. Jo, Gabi, Michelle and I grabbed some good Vietnamese grub, and then hopped in Gabi’s car to head back into the city center and walk up the edge of the Yarra River to the Blue Train Café for coffee & desserts – their specialty!... With the city lit up and reflecting off the water, bordered by nice river sidewalks and trendy shops & cafes, this area is very inviting in the nighttime.

Michelle and I caught the train together in the morning to Spencer St Station and I ventured onwards with my backpack to the airport, as she ventured to work… I certainly have the better end of the deal in this moment! ;)

MELBOURNE -Reunited 1/2 way around-the world! - VICTORIA, OZ

2007-05-21T19:23:00.000-07:00

Melbourne - in the state of Victoria - set along the coast... is now my 3rd Australia stop. Grab your MetroCard, as this place is filled with trams running on trolley lines through most of the streets and a train system that jives with these trams - making travel to and from the city center, and around, very simple (except for the chilly temps if you get caught waiting a little while.) YES - it is rounding into WINTER here! (my summer mode has drastically come to a hault for the next 7-8 weeks!)

Tall buildings tower overhead the square grid of city center; cappucinos are dusted with wonderful cocoa powder; locals (and us backpackers who jump into the local scene) have Coles grocery bags (or xtra bags of some sort) to grab veggies, fruits and other groceries; one cafe after another fills street after street, as do some of the most amazing bakeries -- especially along Acland St in the St. Kilda area; the wind picks up blowing cool air in an encompassing cyclone; sailboats rest anchored in the harbor, along an outstretch of the pier; a "Little Penguin" colony exists, but isn't seen alongside the St. Kilda pier at the moment; Luna Park's wooden rollercoaster attracts a few visitors; book shops and other stores offer some of the latest trends interspersed amongst the cafe-lined streets.

1 year and a month later, I was able to reunite with Michelle & Jo -- after we initially met in Lima, Peru. Both of my "BT Sistas" (blue towel sisters -- an inside joke from our backpacking last year) live in Melbourne, and Michelle has taken me in as a roomie (along with her other roommate Jarrard, and his cat Munsta!) for my week+ visit!

We traveled all over Melbourne - via various public transportation options - pretty much non-stop for my 1st 48hrs in town! Taking to Victoria Market; the many 'arcades' tucked in the city -- filled with local cappucino lovers sitting in their cafes; Federation Square and the Buddha festival; the path along the Yarra River; St. Kilda & Fitzroy; walking along the beach, through streets, out onto the pier, and treating ourselves to many local specialties along the way. On Saturday night we went to an AFL (Australian Rules Football) game -- to see the Saints (Michelle's team) v. the Hawks -- I loved it! I took in the full Australian experience with the meat pie & sauce, Carlton draught beer, and the game! It was one of the worst games in history according to the locals (as there was very little scoring, and not the best playing,) but I didn't know the difference and thoroughly enjoyed watching & learning all about the game (and I most certainly didn't mind watching tons of good looking Aussie guys running around in their short shorts!) ;)

We met up with some of Michelle's friends for a b-day celebration in the St. Kilda area -- enjoying some bev's at two very cool bars -- Spuntino's & The Dog's Bar. The following night we took to the northeastern side of Melbourne's night life on Brunswick St.... sampling some microbrews on tap at the Provincial, followed by an outstanding meal at the Veggie Bar (a trendy, fun vegetarian restaurant,) followed by a little cuban dancing at the Night Cat -- the band was fantastic, the dance floor was relatively huge for a club/bar, and I did my best to keep in step in my trail runners -- the downfall of wardrobe choices while backpacking! (and flip-flops don't quite cut it during nighttime in this start of winter weather!)

At this point I'm nearly 2 days in on trying to catch up on e-mail and this blog!!!! TOO MUCH TO SHARE, and TOO LITTLE TIME to do so!

THANK YOU MICHELLE & JARRARD for sharing your flat with me... and allowing me to catch up on this blog -- finally!! :)

WA (Western Australia) - Fremantle

2007-05-18T22:10:00.000-07:00

At this point I was wishing that my dear friend Jo was with me, as I had just left Darwin where I met a portion of her family, and I would now get to meet her parents (Richard & Rhonda) in person - at their home in Fremantle.

I was curious to explore Fremantle's artistic scene and "cappucino strip" prior to arriving in Perth. Little did I know that I would have the added bonus of getting to stay with Richard & Rhonda at their lovely home and enjoy getting to know Fremantle thru a local perspective! After a fantastic lunch at the Norfolk's outside patio, Richard & I took a walk around the city & harbor -- sampling some brew at Little Creatures along the way. We kept our evening low key and had the chance to visit and drink way too much wonderful Australian wine (for me, anyways) from their cellar collection below... which left me sound asleep shortly thereafter. The following morning Rhonda and I took off for a morning walk thru the neighborhood and along the beach and stopped at a fantastic little coffeeshop, Aubergine, for our morning cup a jo'. Locals filled the interior, and their dogs lined the exterior patiently awaiting their return. We ventured to the Fremantle markets after our showers and enjoyed 1 more coffeeshop along the cappucino strip before heading to the airport for my flight to Melbourne... where I was surprised 1 more time as Rhonda waited with me until I boarded the plane -- this is the only aiport that I personally know of, where your friends and family can still greet you at the gate.

THANK YOU RICHARD & RHONDA FOR ALL OF YOUR HOSPITALITY, "TOUR GUIDING" and too much wine :) DURING MY VISIT!!!!!!!!!!!

WA (Western Australia) - Perth

2007-05-17T22:09:00.000-07:00

Perth is an absolutely gorgeous city! It's tall, gleaming buildings sit alongside the calm Swan River, and it is highlighted by clean streets, lush parks, colorful laurakeets (parrots,) and a plethora of trendy and unique suburbs. The city provides free busses around the city center to help its locals and visitors -- it was only after my 2nd bus ride that I found out that not all of the busses are free -- I am sure I had the bus driver laughing as I hopped on/off for about a 3-stop ride, oblivious that any fare would be due, until afterwards! To find myself still a bit lost in an English-speaking country is humbling and entertaining! At least I'm finally looking the right way when I go to cross the street... I'm just not riding my bike on the left side of the trail at all times -- probably some of their reasoning for the strict bicycle helmet laws in Australia!

There are trains and ferries that can cart you to Fremantle - Perth's sister city (I'm not sure how they refer to it exactly)... but they're about 20mins apart by car.

I spent my 1st night in Northbridge in a very unique hostel, called Governor Robinson's. It was tucked into a quiet neighborhood and was in easy walking distance to William's St. for some delicious vietnamese dining my first night, and Beaufort street for the following morning - where I enjoyed a brisk walk in the chilly air, as the sunshine slowly rose to warm me. I found an upbeat lil' cafe called Soto Espresso and enjoyed some nice lounge music, journaling and a "long black" before taking a walk through the surrounding neighborhoods for fun!

Later this same day, I had the chance to reconnect with friends (Tricia, Jim & Fiona... and their new dog, Stella) from L.A. that I hadn't seen since their going-away party in New Mexico nearly 2 years ago (when they were moving to Australia.) It was Fiona's 7th birthday, so we enjoyed an evening at her favorite restaurant - Fasta Pasta, had her charms put on her new charm bracelet, and she then proceeded to give Tricia and I the quickest, 1-minute manicures we've ever had, with some of her new beauty items! Having a chance to visit with each of them and see the school where Tricia works and Fiona attends, and also explore Kings Park, Bold Park and some of the surrounding area with Jim was an absolute joy. Our conversations could have continued for many days more... and they will someday in L.A. -- as they will move back to the U.S. in 7 weeks!

THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR HOSPITALITY, "TOUR GUIDE" SERVICES, and INSPIRATION JIM, TRICIA & FIONA!!!

NT (Northern Territory) - Darwin - AUSTRALIA

2007-05-15T22:09:00.000-07:00

In a place known for its tropical weather, crocodiles and deadly box jellyfish (who prevent locals from swimming at their beaches 8 months of the year!), Darwin is a very laid-back, northern coast town in Australia that offers even more to its residents and visitors. The beaches and harbors are beautiful, the neighborhoods are quaint and peaceful and the downtown area offers some cafes and a nightlife that could rival most major cities. Darwin also serves at the hub for traveling to the outlying parks (aka, "the bush") - Kakadu, Katherine Gorge and Litchfield. I only managed to make it to Litchfield, after my trip to Kakadu was cancelled last-minute. On the way to Litchfield our 4WD truck started smoking (never a good sign!) so we ended up on the side of the road for 2 hrs, creatively coming up with games to keep us entertained in the middle of nowhere! Once we made it to Litchfield we swam in two different waterfalls, and only took in the view of another two -- as they have not yet been checked for crocodiles this season! It was a less than "bush" experience, but it was certainly a good representation of what the landscape of the Northern Territory has to offer. Distant views reveal how undeveloped the surrounding regions are.

Since I had extra time in Darwin, I took to exploring as much of the area as I could. I rode a bike up the coast to East Point and Nightcliff one day & visited the local museum to learn more about the indigenous culture & region. The bike ride also offered me spectacular views of the coast line and mangroves, as well as the chance to explore a couple more local villages. Unfortunately, I didn't have any wallabies greet me -- that was my #1 hope for this "push-bike" journey! My visits to the Parap Market & Mindil Beach Sunset Market allowed me to see Jabaru twice -- an Australian band that is composed of a husband & wife (Renee & Rodger Bradshaw) and the 30+ instruments that they play -- their talent is beyond belief! I found myself lost in the awe of the upbeat and joyful music that flowed from their market locations, on both occasions. The neat thing was that I actually saw a Jabaru (a large, white Australian bird... almost egret-like) fly overhead en route to Litchfield the following day!)

I met up with Penni, my friend Jo's aunt, who lives in Darwin. I had the chance to meet more of her family (Aurora, Sue & Simon) and enjoy a lovely dinner at her home. Through our conversation, she was also able to direct me to the markets and some of the best coffee spots in Darwin. We met up for one more cup o jo' before I flew to Perth. Such a delight to spend time with local friends!

THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING PENNI!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Arafura games were in town -- so athletes filled the streets, hotels and public busses during most of my visit. I took the time to visit with some of the paralympic athletes, and even end up on an evening walk n' roll with a few more wheelchair competitors... they were a trip! I was easily impressed with some of their 'tricks' in the chairs.

The Deckchair Cinema had just re-opened for the season, so I ventured over there one evening to see an independent film -- Burke & Wills... the film itself was not that impressive (rather dark, really)... but the environment of the cinema - kickin' it back in deckchairs - was fantastic! We were in the warm open-air, blanketed by stars above!

BALI - INDONESIA

2007-05-02T22:08:00.000-07:00

In the states everyone hears about "Bali" -- I think most of our familiarity is tied in with beautiful beaches and dream cabanas alongside them.... YES, this does exist! MORESO, the Balinese traditions and internal offerings (off the coastline) are what I found to be BALI! In villages where the ritualistic making and placing of daily offerings is neverending; where you have to pay attention to where you step so you don't fall through the sidewalk (as their are holes along the way,) nor step on the day's offering that has been placed; where the local women are seen walking from one place to another with large stacks or bowls of items on their head; where men play chess along the roadside calling out "taksi" to you... and when you say "no thanks"... they say "maybe tomorrow?"; where Gammalongs' sweet melodies can be heard in the far-off distance; where monkeys are free to be monkeys; where rice is so precious; and where smiles are ever-present once you have shared one yourself...

Walking from the airport – after passing the death penalty warnings at immigration, for those caught with drugs – I am wandering the streets in search of some type of shuttle bus to Ubud. Ubud is an area north and inland from Kuta beach. Only one-two hours south from some of the islands biggest mtns – and active volcanoes for that matter, this town offers a spa, organic, ritualistic daily routine that becomes more and more enjoyable each day. With homestay options that have you tucked under trees amongst gorgeous family temples and surrounded by the local people and their daily offerings, this place offers you community integration from the very start.

My first night I met two girls from Quebec at a local café and we journeyed over to witness the Kecak Dance (the Balinese traditional Fire Dance) – and for those of you who have seen the film Baraka, you have seen it too… I was so amazed to witness the guys (a 100-man choir, as they describe it) in their chanting/dance ritual IN PERSON! I never knew exactly what the chanting was from when I saw the film… and to now experience it in person is so energizing! It was followed by two impressive trance dance segments, where two girls dance with their eyes closed in one, and a guy dances on burning coconut shells in his barefeet in the other. Each of these dances stems from a very detailed story-line (which would take me 3 more pages to explain!)

I wandered the streets a bit in the dark (such a joy to be in an area where it is considered relatively safe to do so) and stumbled upon KAFE. This is a traveler’s hot-spot, moreso for those into yoga (as Bali Spirit yoga studio is upstairs,) organic foods, and deeper conversations. The local people who work here are delightful, and the environment is extremely inviting with its wood community tables inside and out, low table & cushion seating along the wall, library of magazines & books for borrow, and all sorts of products offered in support of Bali Cares (a non-profit that supports local charitable projects.)

During my first 24-hrs in town I formed all sorts of friendships that would endure my week in UBUD, and most likely many years to come. Adriane (from Nelson, B.C.) joined me for some laughs in the monkey forest one afternoon and a sunrise journey up Mt. Batur (one of the active volcanoes.) By day two we were roommates and off to on our own self-made bike journey into the rice fields and villages on the outskirts of UBUD. As we rode back into town we spotted a side street and new cafe to explore... Bali Buddha. This turned into a typical "in the right place at the right moment" experience, as we ran into another friend from the night before and met a nice couple on their way out - Karen & Andrew (Ketchum, ID)... I immediately got caught up in conversation with Karen which then led me to Wayan, the traditional Balinese Healer up the street, the following day. Our entire group enjoyed many nights at KAFE and random meetings along the streets of UBUD.

I took to a 4+hour cleansing healing with Wayan and her beautiful staff, that left me glowing (literally - my skin was practically new looking!) afterwards. We became fast friends and I returned to visit with her for hours the following day -- getting to know more about her, her family, and her business... and enjoy some scrumptious vitamin filled raw veggies & fruits during our chat --watching me try to peel an apple with a knife the same way they do left us both laughing! I look forward to returning and spending more time with her in the near future!

Andrew & Karen had invited me to travel to the island of Nusa Lembongan with them, so I chose to spent my final overnight in Bali there. While on the slow boat (1 1/2 hours) over to the island I was in shock as I had never seen swells so big... the roll of the water was most likely 6-8ft high. It was even more amazing to me, since we were simply crossing the Strait of Lombok, but afterwards I learned that it is typical with all of the coral reefs in the area and seaweed farming. We wandered one section of the island upon arrival -- past many tarps of smelly, drying seaweed -- I dropped my bags at a room for the night and then we attempted to catch a ride over to Mushroom Bay on the other side of the island. Karen & Andrew's moped got a flat tire, so the three of us hopped in the back of a work truck and stood up holding onto a rusty bar in the back as we worked our way up and over the mini-mountain that lies in between... ducking our heads on occasion, so we wouldn't be whacked in the face by tree branches! After enjoying some lunch at the water's edge, we walked the trail back towards the main beach where I was staying. After a quick swim and beer, we parted ways for the night and I went back to my guesthouse. That same night I visited with some of the local guys a few guesthouses down, until exhaustion led me back to bed. My eventful morning beach walk (after a fall off a step that left my legs all sliced up by coral in the water below) was still relatively enjoyable. I walked out to the point of the island and passed many locals along the way. I then hiked over to Tamarind beach to meet up with "Blackie" & friends for a morning of snorkeling in a cove behind the island. The boat ride there was fantastic and the snorkeling was absolutely magnificent -- clear blue waters, huge/colorful coral, and bright-colored fish (including angelfish, clownfish, and puffer fish) -- and when a stong current came in we did our best to get back to the boat quickly so we could get out of there promptly -- too fun! I was a tad too nauseated for the 2nd dive, so I enjoyed a mini-siesta atop the boat in a larger cove we visited for the 2nd snorkel.

I returned to Bali's mainland via the fast boat (30 mins) and realized the advantage of the slowboat, as the fast boat left us flying over the swells and crashing hard onto the water below. So much that the offerings fell out of the wooden temple box above me and landed on my head at one point -- talk about good luck blessings! ;) I endured this crazy ride with 4 guys from Sydney who were staying in Kuta Beach -- we were all very entertained (and somewhat sore) afterwards! I ended up dropping my stuff in their room in Kuta so I could enjoy sunset at the beach with them, followed by a fantastic dinner at a little restaurant off Poppies I... then it was off to the airport for an overnight flight to Australia!

Chiangmai & NORTHERN THAILAND

2007-04-30T21:11:00.000-07:00

The North of Thailand has a charm all its own. From the busy streets of Chiangmai into the outer hills that surround it - the nature of the Thai people here is even more laid-back, and one of friendliness. Their Sunday market in Chiangmai is a Thai massage, food and craft fest that spans what seems like forever... and it remains packed with people well into the night hours.

I took off on a short trek into the mountains about 2 hrs north of Chiangmai to camp out with the local hill tribe - the Lahu tribe - for an evening surrounded by 360-degrees of pure bliss! The hike up was bit steep at points, and was felt more due to hot weather than the actual incline for most of us. As we arrived into the village on top of this mountain area, some of the local tribe was out planting new seeds in the field. The kids were shy as we first arrived, but once we were settled into our hut (with the most gorgeous panoramic views you could possibly imagine) - they started to come around and we took to playing and giggling together. It made no difference that we couldn't communicate with words. Later in the evening they sang and danced for us -- too, too cute! After relaxing in the early morning sunshine a few of us ventured down to a big waterfall for a swim, before riding elephants, white water rafting and bamboo rafting our way back to the village where we would meet our transport back to Chiangmai.

I had exciting things awaiting me in Chiangmai, as I became very close friends with Gan - a girl I met my 1st night there - as I popped into her friend's tour agency. She & I were enveloped in conversation from that moment forward and I went out to play pool and watch a local band with her later that night -- which meant I would ride with her thru the crazy streets on her moped! An event for me in itself! We had such a blast that we agreed I would stay with her at her flat when I returned from my trek. In addition to this, Gan just opened up her own cooking school 4 months ago, so I had the chance to visit her beautiful space and learn to cook 5 more Thai dishes with her privately... which was such a treat -- and very entertaining for both of us! I kept getting in trouble for singing ;) ... We enjoyed visiting for the rest of the night (basically talked ourselves to sleep!) and the following morning we went around town together to take care of a few of my errands, as well as enjoy some breakfast, a walk in the park, and a visit by some of her family's place. It was hard to say goodbye -- but we "pinky-swore" it will be SEE YOU SOON!

LUANG PRABANG, LAOS - Mopeds & Umbrellas

2007-04-29T22:06:00.000-07:00

In came the downpour of rain as I was about 15 minutes shy of my departure to the airport… sitting under cover and enjoying at little homemade lemon tea that my guest house family made for me, I sat in silent observance. In walked a local woman with a piece of arched bamboo w/two cut stubs on either end to secure the ropes of the baskets that hung off each side as she balanced this heavy set-up across one shoulder. The baskets are full of local food that she walks home to home to sell… a door-to-door market – what a fantastic concept! The unique thing is that she also carried a scale with her to weigh the kg’s of the produce… we’re talking a scale that’s about 1 sq. ft. in size… I’m impressed!

Traveling to the airport in my Tuk-Tuk (in Laos, they are a motorbike with a small truck flatbed w/a bench on each side and luggage rack on top)… it was a flashback moment to my Jeep days when we had to pull over to secure more plastic window tarps to protect me (actually, my stuff) from the rain. People (mostly younger kids) were trying to get across town on their mopeds with umbrellas overhead to shield the heavy water droplets… it was actually quite fun to watch… and it left me wanting to stay and participate – as I flashed back to our days growing up in Florida and having toothpick races down the gutters in the pouring rain with my sisters – I can only imagine what a blast it would be to try to venture across town while trying to protect yourself from the shower (sort of like being in any of these Southeast Asian countries during their New Year’s celebrations!)

LUANG PRABANG, LAOS - Washing of the Buddha… the completion of the New Year ritual

2007-04-28T22:06:00.000-07:00

Hoping to catch sunset from a higher point of the peninsula in Luang Prabang, I ventured to the main temple where local people were visitng from all over to participate in their yearly ritual of offerings (flowers, burning incense, and other natural items) and the washing of the Buddha. It was an interesting visit, as it was part festival, part ritual, and part normal every day wandering and visiting at a local temple. I had a chance to visit with one of the young monks who is living at the temple for 5 years – he’s from the north (Phongsali) and is very well spoken. I realized that their curiosity/fascination with me as a tourist/foreigner, is the same as my fascination with the life they are leading… a beautiful exchange of culture!

LUANG PRABANG - LAOS

2007-04-28T22:04:00.000-07:00

Flying in over the lush green mountaintops, I felt a deep sense of relief to be ‘home’… in familiar territory, so-to-speak. It’s only been about five or six days since I left the mountain of Koh Pha-Ngan, but it left me wanting more! Gotta have those mountain sunsets, storms and out-of-breath climbing experiences!

Although they both share the marvel of ancient temples, tuk-tuks and very formal visa-on-arrival processing in their airports, Luang Prabang is a completely different ‘ball game’ from Siem Reap/Cambodia. I was pleasantly surprised to arrive to a pleasant taxi ride over the river, and then along it’s bank, into the slow, interflowing traffic charade. It was a more peaceful sort of craziness… as the cars, trucks, motos and pedestrians somehow intermingled without ever braking!

The town of Luang Prabang is MAGNIFICENT! It is absolutely stunning… the streets are clean, and the side ones are serenely lined with local homes and guesthouses, as well as brick bordering & curbs. Little alley/walkways can be found here & there, and are extremely quiet. You adapt a sense of wandering in silence, as you don’t want to break the peace barrier of the moment.

Along the river, upon a golden sunset in the distant mountains, kids bathe & play, canoes and longtail boats quietly float about, and even the riverside cafes on the bluff above are quiet. Just one street parallel to the riverfront, uphill, is their main pedestrian-only market… it is gorgeous! I have NEVER seen an international market this clean and full of items that I would love to fill my home with. The vibrance of the differing shades of color found in the local clothing and crafts is just too intricate for words. Each market vendor (typically a women or young girl) has one hanging light bulb above their items, along with a calculator for negotiations… and they’ll do their best to sell you, but it’s not overbearing like some other places (most likely because they’re seated and can’t follow you as easily!)

Cafes & restaurants, along with little massage spas and internet venues fill the outer edges of the street… and this stems for many blocks (maybe 8 or so???)… seems like forever, yet it’s so pleasant to just walk about that one might enjoy 8 blocks more!
One interesting thing is that pizza places are big here… certainly not the case in Thailand and Cambodia… I may have to give it a try some evening. For tonight, it was a local dish – steamed fish in banana leaves with steamed rice… delicious! The fish simply melts in your mouth!

O, my elephant!
I went looking for adventure and certainly found it! Usually most well-traveled peeps know to research and ask around a bit before jumping into any tour/activity/experience in any new place they travel for the 1st time. I proceeded to surpass this common sense and attempt to get myself involved in activity for the following day within an hour of arriving in Luang Prabang. I wanted to mountain bike, visit villages, and have an experience riding an elephant (especially after spending time with them in the wild in Africa!) So I pretty much signed up through a local tour agency to do a combo of all 3, all day… and I was told to arrive at 8:00am the next morning. I was at least wise enough to prepare for the trail (as usual) and stocked up on water, snacks, long sleeves, and rain gear for my waist-pack. Upon arriving at the tour co. early in the morning, I managed to make a couple birthday phone calls to the USA for Chelle & Mel as I watched the guy greasing the run-down bike chain with a cruddy toothbrush… after I hung up he asked me to take a test spin… it was the best looking bike out of a rather awful selection, so I just agreed to it and figured all would be cool. That was until parts started falling off and coming loose along the way!!!!!!!! This tends to be a standard for me with international bike rentals! (as I’m sure it is for most people) Riding out of town w/ChanTy I tried to mimic the crazy way the traffic moves so I could squeeze through the flow without harm – it was quite a trip…we didn’t use brakes much! Riding out into the outlying mountain villages and into the quiet of the towering teak forest, I was in ‘heaven’. I was the only tourist to be seen on the road for miles in either direction – it was fantastic! The kids in the villages would shout “Faranga, Faranga!” as I rounded the corner, as a way of signaling to their friends/families that a foreigner was passing by… which they are curious to observe. I would wave and smile and say hello in their local language (phonetically – “sah-bah-dee”) and they would often times be very excited with this simple gesture. 19km’s later, and after a pretty good climb over a mountain pass, I arrived to a dirt road that led to the Namkan River. ChanTy and I road through the village, racing a bit, and finally arrived to a field of papayas with a resting hut. I climbed into the hut with one of the local woman, and as her daughter joined us from collecting papayas in the field, I began a trade of items – I shared peanuts, and they cut up fresh (non-ripe, crunchy) papaya. We did our best to communicate even though we couldn’t speak each other’s language, and I certainly enjoyed my mini-siesta afterwards. The adventure was just beginning… I would then climb down a dirt hill bank to a bamboo bridge (feeling thankful that I had a waterproof bag for my camera if I were to plunge off one side, as it’s not all too sturdy by any means,) and then climbed up the dirt hill on the other side into another village and took a walk around, visiting with the school kids, before meeting “O”… my 18 yr old, female elephant I was going to take a little journey with! During my conversations with ChanTy during our bike ride, I found out he had never actually ridden the elephant and I asked him to join me, since there was certainly room for two – and what a trip this was! We started by weaving our way through the village (watch out for roofs and trees!) and back down the steep dirt hill to cruise up river… somewhat in the middle of it, for a while! Local kids were cast-net fishing either from wooden canoes or from a shallow wade. Once we returned to land, our guide on the neck of “O” hopped off to follow behind – and she thought this would be the perfect opportunity to start cooling herself off, so all of a sudden ChanTy and I were having dirt thrown on us, and then she tore off a small branch full of leaves and started swatting the back of her neck – it was hilarious, as she was inadvertently whipping my legs too! I fed her a ball of sticky rice before our journey, and a bunch of bananas when we returned. The local kids were gathered around to watch.

The next leg of our mountain bike journey was through some pretty cool dirt roads and was a hysterical reminder of my bike ride with Elizabeth in Puerto Varas, Chile as ChanTy’s pedal kept falling off one side of the bike – I was able to share the story of how I single pedaled my way back into town after mine fell off a few years ago – both times were fun! ChanTy was getting a tad frustrated, but I found our extra village stops (in search of tools/assistance) to be the highlight of the journey. We road around the very tall mountain peak we came over the shoulder of and enjoyed sandwiches for lunch along the banks of the NamKan river (and we were starving when we finally arrived – it took quite a while to get there!)… A little swim (too shallow, as I quickly found out when my head met a rock just below the water's surface) and brief siesta and we rode up another mountain section to visit a Temple. This particular temple was very unique in that it had 4 stories and we could climb up to each. Four nuns that were pulling weeds from the grass surrounding the base of the temple were pleasantly surprised to invite ChanTy and I inside.

Our final leg of the journey was relatively downhill and back into the traffic dance… with sore rear ends and a lot of stories from our day, ChanTy and I chilled on the upper banks of the river enjoying a Beerlao. It was ideal.

CAMBODIA - Siem Reap

2007-04-25T22:03:00.000-07:00

Siem Reap was inviting upon walking into the airport. It was only our flight full of passengers to be seen anywhere! I randomly jumped in a taxi with two other backpackers from Liverpool, and found my way to a guest house located within walking distance of the madness! Madness meaning traffic, packed markets, and the pedestrian only filled street! To be able to chill roadside at a plastic table and chairs while enjoying a fresh (yes, the cut up the fruit right there) fruit smoothie and curry or amok, while people watching (mostly the locals) is an entertainment experience in itself! The cleanliness of the cooking venue is certainly to be questioned, but I think that 7 weeks into it I have built up a bit of a tolerance to venturing into some of the more local fare (so far, so good in Africa and Thailand!)

Siem Reap draws enormous amounts of tourists for it’s main feature – Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat & Machu Picchu have got to be the two most amazing ruins in the world! (if I am missing another, or have forgotten one, then I will end up finding it someday!)
Ancient Angkor is filled with various temples, containing some of the most intricate stone sculpture I’ve ever seen – from dancing aspara’s, to Buddha faces, to elephants, and decorative flowers. For instance, Angkor Wat is the biggest, and most popular temple of all. It is the sunrise ‘capital’ of this area, where tuk-tuks and motos (and tour busses too) flood out in a line of little white headlights before any morning light is to be seen. I climbed to the top of this particular temple in the far back corner, actually sitting on the outside ledge (my remaining fear of heights was far subsided in this moment)… and witnessed a picture-perfect sunrise – which you will all get to see via pictures (assuming they’re posted here!)

I made the crazy decision to see as much as I could in one day (most people are on 3-day passes)… but knowing that I have the non-stop feature located somewhere within my being, I took off on foot – as my tuk-tuk driver (Bayon) waited to cart me the km’s in between, non-stop, all day! CLIMBING stairs for people with a size 3-4 foot to summit the top of each temple, and doing my best to climb into every corner, ‘nook & cranny’ to soak in the entire experience. The heat in the middle of the day left me consuming full bottles of liquid between each temple. My ideal choice would have been to use a bicycle, however – I could never have reached the far outlying ruins of Roulos in the southeast… I traveled along an old Ancient Route, which is a village dirt road with high-stilted homes, and the families chilling on tables or in hammocks below. Behind the homes lining the streets were vast fields of crops and nothing! This particular area in Cambodia has an interesting mix of palm trees and dirt – like what you’d see in a desert… I don’t know how you technically refer to this type of landscape, but I’ll call it the desert tropics!

So back to a little more on the “things” these temples contain…
BUDDHAS – it’s too cool! Bayon, one section within Angkor Thom is just coated with towers displaying a Buddha face on each of its four sides (or sometimes 2 & 3, depending on the tower)… They are HUGE!... and it is like standing within the envelope of an invitation to meditate.

Preah Kahn, another section further north had dancing asparas – stone carved female figures, in groupings that were detailed to the millimeter. Each woman’s smile and stance was ever so graceful and beautiful within each conglomeration.

In the southeast of Angkor (the Roulos that I mentioned above) – Bangkor, one of the oldest ruins (dating back to the 800’s) towers over a present-day monastery below. The area is absolutely silent. I only saw about 5-6 other tourists during the time I spent here, as most don’t care to venture this far away from the ‘main attraction’. I was able to wander down and observe some of the monks and their daily rituals, as well as witness two young monks learning – one from a book, the other how to put on his orange robe.

Ao Thong Nay Pan Noi - Koh Pha Ngan, THAILAND

2007-04-18T21:49:00.000-07:00

Water so very clear… you can see every ripple of the sand based on the current tide; you can see hermit & sand crabs scurrying about; you can swim without a mask and snorkel and gain the same effect! To swim the length of the cove in the early morning, while the water is like glass, or to float about the buoyant salt in the heat of the day as the sun does its best to fry you like an egg… oh so pleasant, oh so wonderful these moments are!
Walking the 2km between the coves (which technically means around the little mountain and up over the hill) you can access both Pan Noi & Pan Yai. Noi is smaller, more quaint, with a fun beach atmosphere and tight-knit town. Yai is a longer stretch, with harder packed sand, and more spread out resorts that line the full of the beach.

Ko Pha-Ngan - THAILAND

2007-04-16T21:48:00.000-07:00

Getting ripped off on our bungalows (it happens traveling sometimes!)the night before dampened our spirit for staying on Ko Samui until later in the morning, so we went in search of the local taxi truck early in the morning (after a failure to find a coffee shop along the street,) with a desire to head to the less developed island of Ko Pha-Ngan. The taxi trucks are fabulous! The have a cage rack on top to toss your bag(s) – unless your bag is mine, and it’s far too heavy to lift up there!, and you sit on benches in the back of the truck… simple! And they’re 50 Baht (about $1.50 US)

We finally found our coffee shop in Na Thon – right across the street from the ferry docks. A stroll through town afterwards along the scooter-lined streets, hanging bird cages, and many little tourist shops led us to a travel agency where I happened to notice we had been ripped off a 2nd time! Reverting to negotiating 101, I politely informed the gentleman at the ferry docks that they lied to us (we asked where the 150 Bht ferry boat was, and they said there was none, and played stupid – it was only one pier over) and overcharged us for the same ferry that everyone else would be traveling on at 11am. He actually admitted to lying to us, but was only willing to give us a 50% credit – SHADY! I was actually fine with this, and my German friends were surprisingly thrilled – just had to stand up for us, and other future travelers honestly seeking out the same info. You’d think Kharma would be a way of life for more people around here!

As we arrived on the island of Ko Pha-Ngan we were surrounded by far too many locals offering us taxis & bungalows! It’s quite overwhelming – especially if you don’t know where you’re going! Luckily Ulli had been to Mae Haad before and knew that I’d probably like it since the Yoga Retreat was 1 beach over. We jumped in another taxi truck and enjoyed a much quieter & desolate journey on what was most definitely an island road. The lush palm trees and island green was smelling sweeter by the second! Trucks pass taxis and taxis pass mopeds… that seems to be the hierarchy of the barely two-lane road system!

Mae Haad is a super-quiet, off-the-beaten path village at the northwest corner of the island of Ko Pha-Ngan. There are about 5 different bunches of bungalows and maybe 10 different shops/cafes lining their “main” street. There is also an extra little island that you can walk over to along a sandbar (how cool is that?!)… which also offers a small gathering of bungalows and a restaurant. The beach is pretty well known around the island for having some of the best coral reefs for snorkeling – and boats pull up off-shore in the distance to bring visitors from other beaches who want to take a glance around with their mask. We were able to swim in the wide channel that goes between the coral, and have some nice views through the crystal-clear water at the sea life below! (it’s very shallow – maybe 3+ feet (1m) deep in the 1st 75-100yards off shore)

The bungalows we found were up a quiet road on the way out of the village (a 4-5 minute walk from the beach)… and they sat up high on the mountain side. I was equal, if not higher than the tops of the palm trees! We were the only ones out there, so it was an eerie sort of quiet for the night – especially after the village power went out around 8pm! I luckily had my headlamp in my hand (I had walked into town on my own)… the store owner (where I was on Internet) was so excited that I had the light – I was able to help us to see a few things that we would have struggled to find otherwise!

Koh Samui - THAILAND

2007-04-15T21:47:00.000-07:00

The streets in Bangkok are mad! The water war has overtaken the city… it is amazing that people haven’t started opening the car doors or entering buses when the windows are closed, in order to drench you! As we traveled out of Bangkok we wondered how the city streets would appear 20 minutes out from city center – would they be this crazy?!

Arriving at the airport, we had 2 security checks – one at the terminal, and another at the gate – which were an absolute breeze – and a quick bite before our 45 minute flight to Ko Samui! The flight offered multiple views of the greenish lights of the boats harbored in clusters below.

Arriving in Ko Samui was an experience in itself… sort of, well, like Disney World! Reason being that they use the same kind of shuttle that the parking lots used 20 years ago in Disney World to take your from the plane to an open air, resort looking, hut island with one baggage carousel – which is actually 4 separate belts, forming a square, that have a physics wiz behind their design, so they always drop the bag on the belt below!
We’ve officially gone retro – island style! I love it!

The North End of the island (which is the quietest section) was actually quite packed with tons of little shops, cafes, and other minor conveniences lining the road… for about 20 minutes non-stop!

We settled in to a place called the Moon, and enjoyed sinking our feet into the sand and watching little homemade rockets (or, so we think) and a couple fireworks a few hundred yards across the water. Sand so deep and lush, water so warm, sky so clear – I’m lovin’ the Thai island life already!

JOY LUCK CLUB - Bangkok, THAILAND

2007-04-15T21:46:00.000-07:00

I may have found my favorite café in Bangkok… tucked into a little 4-table ‘hole-in-the-wall’ is a lovely little kitchen, sweet people, a very eclectic assortment of décor, and a very fresh, healthy, trendy – beautifully presented – menu of traditional Thai dishes! The green curry was so hot I had to cool down the lips with a little coffee ice cream! (talk about the PERFECT remedy!)… where else can you get multi-grain like, red & white rice in the shape of a teddy bear?!, with a fresh flower on the side of your plate?! Wanida, the owner, is celebrating her 17th year with this business, as she has watched many other restaurants along the same street come & go over the years. I returned to this cafe many days in a row, and had the chance to visit with Wanida during the later night hours... and consequently had the chance to hear lots of stories about the area and enjoy some great conversation with her, as she spoke exceptional English. (thankfully, as my Thai is only up to about 10 words max!)