AND THE ENERGY CARRIED ME BACK INTO THE CANYON… - BLUE MTNS, NSW, OZ

Still not able to leave, I sent e-mails to my friends in Sydney and took a 1000+ step trip down the “Giant Staircase” behind the “3 Sisters” (one of the most prominent rock features in the region) – all the time chatting with a friendly couple from Sydney - and made my way to the Leura forest. It was so rich in green and silence that I had to just stop and sit in the middle of it… I was probably in the canyon floor for close to two hours and never saw another soul… PERFECT! It was just me and the very loud cockatoos, bell birds and lyrebirds! I kept hoping I might see another wallaby, or even one of the much-feared giant lethal snakes (as there are a good handful of them here)… but no go! The climb back up to the top of the canyon followed a line of cascading waterfalls – how frickin’ cool is that?! I think I had my memory card running on overload the whole way up! I sat in the sunshine and wind up top to enjoy my lunch at the edge of the cliff for quite a while and then took to the upper cliff trail (my Amphitheater track along mid-canyon was out of the question, due to a recent landslide.) I wandered for nearly two hours more and had the chance to enjoy the Bridal Veil Falls lookout (Telluride anyone?!) and Tarpeian Rock all by my luckily lonesome self! PURE BLISS!

My friend Jacindie (who lives locally) recommended that I make my way to Café Josophans for chocolate waffles… so I walked into Leura through a very big and quiet neighborhood stretch – passing B & B’s along the way – and found myself in chocolate heaven! Seriously – they have a chocolate fountain in here! I wasn’t really wanting to indulge on something this ridge – but I was told this was a “can’t miss” thing… so an hour later I walked out on a sugar high and chilled outside with a cockatoo who had decided to fly in and have a waffle itself… atop the menu sign for the café – talk about ideal advertising! ;) The way he/she was holding this waffle so delicately with one claw and biting off the smallest of pieces which where then made further smaller by a tongue and beak tearing pattern… so interesting to witness from a foot away!

Still revved up from this day’s venture, I figured I’d walk back to Katoomba from Leura – the distance wasn’t much more than 3-4km’s, but the hill would be a good lil’ jaunt… why not?! Might as well just walk until I can’t walk anymore!!! J

By this point I knew a small group of people in town and the guys running the hostel knew me – so I basically visited with friends for the next 6 or 7 hours! So wonderful!
My morning coffee shop, the Elephant Bean, even asked me if I was moving there – and of course my answer was “you never know”… because I am subject to doing RANDOM things like this… can we say KEENE, NY?! … oh, yeah, and I also have that slight tendency to live as far apart as I can from myself… why not try all the way across the world, instead of just the U.S.?! …regardless – I will be back to climb the rest!!!

IT CAN ONLY BE FELT… the ENERGY of the BLUE MOUNTAINS – NSW, OZ

I don’t even really know where to begin in trying to describe the Blue Mountains in Australia…. They are MAGICAL! Something happened – along the same lines as with the Adirondack Mtns in New York – for me here… I got “the bug.” I fell so in love with this area immediately that I couldn’t get enough of it… nor could I leave!!! The only difficulty I ran into here was trying to make up my mind as to WHERE I wanted to explore – there are far too many beautiful & precious places tucked within these deep canyons and quaint townships. A new friend of mine was heading to a local favorite – the bigger 6-fall track of Wentworth Falls… the Ruined Castle loomed 6-hrs in the distance… and Australia’s Grand Canyon ended up as the repeat tune in my mind for over 24hrs, and therefore drew me in – for another solo journey – and I had no idea WHY at the time (which is usually the most fascinating reason to go!)

I missed the train by minutes… I caught the bus within minutes… and I recognized the road name I needed (a couple km’s from town) and managed to hop off the bus in time to only be about 2+km from the trailhead! A quick run into the Bush Rock Café (the ONLY café or ‘shop’ so to speak in this mountain neighborhood) to grab more grub for the trail – snacks weren’t going to cut it… I needed real food! I spoke with Mark (the owner) for a few minutes and he reversed my route by recommendation… and what a thrill it was to start with the highlight – Evan’s Lookout – over the Grand Canyon!! This left me bouncing along the trail (yes, I literally ran down the stairs into the canyon floor!)… well, with one side trip ½ way down – on a “no through” trail to a cliff… to eat lunch, sit in silence, and capture some beautiful photo moments. It was me and one little tuft of bright pink flowers… a perfect flat surface for yoga… and not another person to be heard or seen… and bright sunshine as the “cherry on top.”

Once I finally descended the remaining portion into the canyon floor, I found myself amongst tropical fern-filled forest, a creek, waterfalls, and abandoned Aboriginal cave work spaces… and quite a bit of darkness, as the sunlight can’t reach this depth all too easy – not dark enough for a headlamp, but not light enough to be tank-toppin’ the trail!
It took me a couple hours, and quite a bit of river rock hopping and ducking under cliff outcroppings along the edge to reach the short tunnel through to the ascent… oh, can we talk about a good lil’ bout of cardio and leg burning… I used photo opps as an excuse to catch my breath a few times… and then indulged on a homemade Chai tea at the Bush Rock Café once I returned to the road – hours later! Too revved from the journey, I decided to tack on an extra 5km’s… and walk into the town of Blackheath, along the Great Western Highway.

Once in Blackheath I became a little sidetracked with watching a large flock of cockatoos munching on tree fruits/seeds back in a neighborhood that I wandered into… which actually caused me to miss my train by literally 2 seconds! I was on the platform – but with no ticket! Sooooo, back to the bus after visiting with a couple locals in the Altitude Deli. And that’s the way it goes!

I was so stoked from my day that I was absolutely beaming. I spent my night back in Katoomba visiting with friends and enjoying the lovely Blue Mtns YHA (hostel.)

“NARROW NECK” - A Mountain Bike Ride to Remember - BLUE MTNS, NSW, OZ

Awaking to a morning filled with bright sunshine, and cool fresh mountain air… ahhh, lovin’ it already! I had no idea what time it was as I awoke, but once our entire dorm was stirring (8 of us, in all) I managed to dig out my watch (after days without use) and realized it was only 7:40am – I was stoked to have the entire day ahead!

I walked into town in search of a coffee shop, and found myself in the Elephant Bean Café only a few minutes later – it’s a good climb up Katoomba St (the main drag,) but it’s only a few blocks long – love the mountain towns! My new friend working as a barista in the café was quick to catch onto my order, and asked me if I wanted my coffee NY, Brazil or Idaho style – at this point I’ve figured out that I can ask my Aussie baristas to pull a short, sweet shot of espresso and fill it up Americano style – vs. the Australian “long blacks” that leave you with a sour taste and way too much caffeine feelin’!

After stocking up on some extra water, fruit and a deli sandwich for lunch, I hired (yes, this is “rent” in US English) a mountain bike - shocked to be asked if I wanted a Trek or Gary Fisher…a clear sign that I’m near REAL mountain trails! – and took off back through town and onto Narrow Neck – my ride for the day. A GLORIOUS, GLORIOUS DAY – PICTURE PERFECT – few clouds in the sky, sun shining brightly, cool mountain air with a light breeze (at my back for the start… always preferable ;) )…and with a quick right off Cliff Dr, I was descending down a windy dirt road into the start of my adventure. I was referred to this ride by a new friend I met in the hostel the night before, and he forewarned me that it contained hills that were too tough to ride up… and I was thinking this wasn’t conceivable, as it’s a fireroad – but come to find out – at one of the very first climbs – he was speaking the truth! It is virtually impossible to keep the front tire of the bike on the ground – that’s how steep it is! (and one of, if not THE, steepest fireroads I’ve ever ridden.) Up & down, and up & down… through the cover of the different Eucalyptus trees… over a little sand… maneuvering through chunky little loose rock… and all 17kms to the end… an ideallic view, off the edge of a cliff – overlooking Sydney’s water reservoir and pure wilderness… the “LIVE” (instead of “dead”) silence was absolute; the birds were serenading a chirping sound in the distant valley below that sounded like the chirp of fire alarms as the battery is dying, but much sweeter; the sun was warming the upper center of my back, and the wind blew lightly – keeping it warm and breezy – a perfect Autumn day. I almost didn’t know what to do with myself… I was all alone – I saw absolutely nobody on my entire journey to the ridge’s end… and I wanted to do everything… to nap, to eat lunch, to write, to take photos, to do yoga, and explore all of the edges… which led me to lunch, yoga, exploring and photography!

Only 1-2 km’s into my 17k return to Katoomba’s town center, I realized that I had a slow leak in my back tire… and was thankful that I had 2 bike pumps… until I realized that neither was doing the job! And if the pump wouldn’t work, my spare tube wasn’t worth anything either. I was so content with where I was and the weather I simply sat in the dirt and messed around with the tire for a bit… still no luck! And that’s when ‘my angels’ appeared… 2 local guys who were on their way out to the end – who used their pump and had me back on the trail within minutes! The ups were starting to kill my legs by the last couple hills – to my surprise. I think it was a sign that it was time to hike when my tire returned to a completely flat state 200yards shy of the paved roads that would lead back into town. I messed around with the bike a few more times, but simply resigned to the fact I would be walking… which simultaneously took care of my plan for an afternoon hike! (be careful what you wish for, right?!)

A much-loved (and needed) hot shower, a load of laundry and a cup of fine coffee later I was back in business! I made a side trip to the local co-op to refill my water bottles, picked up some veggies at the supermarket, and returned to my hostel for a night in with friends! The Blue Mountains YHA (youth hostel) is ranked #2 in the world – and it is well deserving of this status – with its beauty, cleanliness and functionality – it is more than inviting!

I feel the urge to climb into my bunk bed… and sleep with the sound of sweet rain outside! J

SYDNEY to the BLUE MOUNTAINS… a 2-hour, full-day journey! - NSW, OZ

I jumped in with an adventure tour to serve as my transport up to the Blue Mountains for a little self-made 3-day (now 4-day) retreat! After traveling all over the city of Sydney accumulating one backpacker after another, we were on our way to Olympic Park, en route to the mountains. I wandered around the park just a tad and had a chance to get up close with the torch, main stadium, and volunteer remembrance poles… the design and layout of the park is fantastic – the activity of it is ghost-town like… which is shocking to me after being surrounded by the liveliness and spirit that lives on in Lake Placid from the Olympics there.

An hour later we arrived in Blue Mountains Nat’l Park and headed 2 valleys over to an area called Euroka – specifically to the trailhead for Bennet’s Ridge (I was SO wishing I had my mountain bike and a couple hours at this point!)… we wandered down into the grass fields leading to the valley’s creek, and got to hang out with 3 kangaroos!!!!!!!! Well, not too close, as their wild… but close enough that we could really spend time watching their every move, in a rather intricate detail. [Disclaimer: we were told by our guide that they are kangaroos, but some people I’ve crossed paths with believe they’re wallabies… either way – they’re adorable and they hop!] One thing that did surprise me is that they lay down on the ground and chill out like dogs do!

We grabbed lunch in the township of Glenbrook, and wandered around a tad. This small town was filled with locals in the park – quite a few playing tennis – and in the little cafes and markets. From here we ventured to Wentworth Falls and took a nice 1-hr hike along the ridge, and down into the valley’s temperate rainforest along the Undercliff Trail. The views were spectacular!

And there’s more… after a quick trip into and through Leura, we arrived in Katoomba 5mins later and went to their Scenic World area to walk down the Furber Stairs (about 1000 of them – steep down the side of the mountain) to get next to Katoomba Falls, and meet up with the train that makes its way straight up the edge of the cliff back to the top… backwards… through a tunnel… with you feeling like you will slide off the seat if you don’t brace yourself – it was so surreal… and therefore, I loved it!

We had many amazing views of the well-known “3 Sisters” (3 jagged rock formations beside each other, on the edge of the cliff)… and we stopped for 1 more on our way back into Katoomba, where I would say goodbye to all of my new friends (I was the only one staying in the mountains.)

MANLY...Little Manly, Manly Beach & Cabbage Tree Bay - NSW, OZ

Following one of the most scenic and calmest ferry rides I’ve ever encountered, I found myself 30mins later in Manly Beach. This area completely reminds me of San Diego in many different respects… La Jolla, NSW – Australia??? Cabbage Tree Reserve is tucked in on the cliffs above Cabbage Tree Bay – with sandy trails wandering to the edges at various points for extremely distant views. Cabbage Tree Bay is filled with scuba divers, snorkelers and swimmers – just like La Jolla Cove. There is a path along the edge that allows you to walk from the bay over to Manly Beach – and this beach is almost identical to the size and wave style of La Jolla Shores (minus the pier.) Bikers and rollerbladers share the beach/park trail and intertwine with walkers at various occasions. At the end of Queenscliff beach, where the trail turns inland – you find a peaceful park and stream inlet, lined by a few family homes… before reaching the main road and huge park filled with rugby and soccer players on a sunny Sunday morning! I rode quite a ways along the road and explored the neighborhoods a bit… but I have to admit that I felt ridiculous wearing a helmet on a beach cruiser bike (Australian Law) so I ditched the bike back at the rental shop and returned to being flip-flop bound.

There is a cool little café along the beachfront called the Barking Frog – which offered a table for one, amongst the open air and sunshine. I was able to enjoy a little journaling and a chat with Tamara (from Colorado, living in Sydney right now.)

I spent the entire day exploring the area… and as sunset approached I ventured up into the neighborhoods of Little Manly and admired a Kukabarra hanging out on the telephone wire above – just chillin’ with the sunshine lighting up his chest.

The ferry ride back provided some spectacular post-sunset lighting/views of the Sydney Opera House and coastline… I have to admit that I timed my ferry return for sunset… and I am glad I did so!

The Rocks – an area just aside from Circular Quay (where all of the ferries come in and out) has trendy little cafes and shops in an older historic district that now resides below the Harbour Bridge. Zia Pina’s (a tiny Italian restaurant) called my name and I decided to take in a warm meal before catching the train back to Kings Cross for the night.

SUNSHINE in SYDNEY!!!!!!! - NEW SOUTH WALES, OZ

It had been quite a few days since I had seen full-blown sunshine in Melbourne – I missed it so much! Now I find myself in this very beautiful space, still full of towering buildings and bordered by the harbor… which is busy with speed boats and ferries. Additionally, I know that there are many beaches and mountains to be seen! Sooooo, the adventure begins! (finally, after my down-time in Melbourne!)

I jumped in a shuttle bus (started to remind me of Africa, as we were starting to get packed into this particular mini-bus, and I was sitting backwards)…ended up with a bit of a full tour of the city prior to being the last one dropped off at the Pink House – the hostel where I would attempt to find a room… but here (in Sydney, that is,) the hotstel reception staff takes random 1-2 hr breaks!!!!!!!! So, I sat patiently in the courtyard and chatted with a nice guy from France and was quickly invited to join in on a game of monopoly with 3 other friends of his who were arriving – I was tempted, but the desire to go walk/bike in the sunshine overrode! I did manage to get a room, and I was off!

I ventured along side streets and random stairwells working my way along the fingers of the harbor… walked for probably about 2 hours total… and managed to see all sorts of beautiful things that fill the composition of Sydney. This included: a long wharf lined with posh lofts above trendy cafes; Pott’s Point – the ultimate view of the opera house (at sunrise, that is;) through the Royal Botanical Gardens (stopping to admire some storks and cockatoos along the way;) around-beside-next to-under the Sydney Opera House and Opera Café walk; around to the Rocks and Cottage Bay… and so forth… I found a newly opened art gallery featuring some of Nelson Mandela’s artwork reflecting on his time spent on Robben Island… ASTONISHING! HE IS SUCH A GIFT TO OUR WORLD! I think I ‘hopped’ out of the gallery with inspiration after my visit!

I felt confident that I could handle the trains in Sydney after learning the system in Melbourne, so I ventured to the platforms – it was simple, but I know I did entertain some of the locals, as I tried to find where my platforms were, and which direction the trains were actually traveling! OF COURSE I chose to start from the biggest, most complicated station of all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I returned back to my hostel (after a few accidental side streets and meeting a very nice Indian woman…) and arrived to 5 new dorm-mates from Singapore! I think it’s the first time I’ve ever had a full-out dinner party going on in my… bedroom?! Too funny!

Day 2… up early to venture to Toby’s Coffee House (found the organic brew tucked into a 5 mini-table, triangle café)…and found the locals there when I arrived… in hordes! I was lucky to score a seat! I made a decision to switch hostels (as I was ‘odd man out in my room – and it still smelled like dinner!, so I worked my way – after negotiations at a few places – down to Eva’s Backpackers… much better!!) From here I ventured onto Paddington afterwards to check out the markets and Oxford St… and the Sydney weekend scene and local neighborhoods – ALL of the above were fantastic! My wandering took me to the edge of Centennial Park which drew me in with a magnetic force and spit me out a few hours later, post bike-ride and mini-hike! I had to visit Max Brenner’s chocolate shop on the way back, as it is OVERPACKED with locals hour after hour… serving up some of the most exciting chocolate concoctions you could imagine! From fondue to drinking chocolate to shakes, coffees and cocoas – this place was unreal! You can choose if you want milk, white or dark chocolate in your drinks… enough said?! (even the ‘water pipes’ along the ceiling contain chocolate!)

I watched the tail end of sunset from the rooftop of my hostel and read a little more from my book – Down Under, by Bill Bryson – he cracks me up! His humor & writing style are fantabulous! …and my timing on this book couldn’t be better!

Missing Venice Beach and my yoga scene there, I found my calling for this evening at Govinda Yoga and participated in some Kirtan with a very sweet & fun guy from India who led it! Afterwards our entire group traveled upstairs to their restaurant’s back room for some yummy vegetarian food and conversation that kept us there well past closing! I was stoked to know that a few of the new friends I met were going to be headed to Lake Shrine in Pacific Palisades, along with their SRF (Self Realization Fellowship) group – it’s almost like we’re trading places! It was certainly a treat to have a ‘taste’ of home (and actually feel ‘in place’ in my beloved yoga clothes) with random strangers… who were new friends by the end!